Hard starting
#21
02-12-2013, 09:05 PM
Ima bout to drill a 3/32 hole on the side of the air box so I can give this bike a shot of ether for winter starts... I do the same thing on my snow throwers in the winter so I can poke the little straw in the carb for those -15F mornings we get once in a while, but then again snow throwers don't have air filters. Thus I'll have to make sure the hole is in such a position that is not spraying the ether directly on the K&N, but instead up on the walls of the breather box were it can evaporate and make magic.
I know enough now to suspect that the camchain was worn out on that bike and the hard starts could have been fixed with a new one.
#22
02-12-2013, 09:35 PM
I did exactly that on my old KLR250. I had a rubber stopper that I used to seal it up, but with a smaller hole you just run in a sheet metal screw to seal the hole up . I dont like using starting fluid but that bike was so hard to start I didnt care what ether was doing to it.
I know enough now to suspect that the camchain was worn out on that bike and the hard starts could have been fixed with a new one.
I know enough now to suspect that the camchain was worn out on that bike and the hard starts could have been fixed with a new one.
I will say that even with the possible out of spec' valves that I really only have major starting issues when the bike has either sat and/or it is cold out (lets say less than 30F) but I'm sure the valve check will help if its needed... I also have the starter jet drilled.
The Biggest difference for helping to start the bike I have found, is holding the front brake while pumping the front forks angrily WHILE turning the bike over... that seems to get it going pretty well (even worked on a 20F day on a low battery after the bike had been sitting for like 3 weeks or so).
On a side note... one of the best alternatives you can use for ether is penetrating oil
, especially on small engines and even more importantly on 2 Strokes (best thing for chainsaws and single stage throwers that have sat all summer / winter). However, I can't imagine it being a good choice for the KLX because of the air box and filter / screen as a obstacle. 
Last edited by LikesToThump; 02-12-2013 at 09:39 PM.
#24
02-13-2013, 09:00 PM
Hard cold starting on the KLX is a well-documented common problem which can be solved in moderate ambient temperatures with an enlarged choke jet. In cooler temperatures, I also utilize an inline primer bulb I fitted. In cold temperatures below say -10C (10F) I have not yet found the cure.
Thank you
#27
02-15-2013, 04:03 PM
The primer bulb actually works very well in cold ambient temperatures or when the bike has sat for any length of time. A couple of squeezes is enough to raise the fuel level in the float bowl and introduce a little gas into the throttle body to promote better cold starting than the drilled starter jet alone can achieve. Kind of like the 'ticklers' on old Amal carbs.
I should be clear that by "cold" , I mean below 0C (30F). Above those temperatures the drilled starter is sufficient on its own. Below about -10C (15F) however, even the primer bulb is sometimes not enough.
I should be clear that by "cold" , I mean below 0C (30F). Above those temperatures the drilled starter is sufficient on its own. Below about -10C (15F) however, even the primer bulb is sometimes not enough.
#28
02-15-2013, 05:34 PM
The primer bulb actually works very well in cold ambient temperatures or when the bike has sat for any length of time. A couple of squeezes is enough to raise the fuel level in the float bowl and introduce a little gas into the throttle body to promote better cold starting than the drilled starter jet alone can achieve. Kind of like the 'ticklers' on old Amal carbs.
I should be clear that by "cold" , I mean below 0C (30F). Above those temperatures the drilled starter is sufficient on its own. Below about -10C (15F) however, even the primer bulb is sometimes not enough.
I should be clear that by "cold" , I mean below 0C (30F). Above those temperatures the drilled starter is sufficient on its own. Below about -10C (15F) however, even the primer bulb is sometimes not enough.
#29
02-15-2013, 09:51 PM
Haha, good eye!
There actually is one tucked in behind the frame downstream of the bulb. I had some concern over the rubber bulb degrading from the inside over time an shedding rubber crumbs into the fuel supply.
There actually is one tucked in behind the frame downstream of the bulb. I had some concern over the rubber bulb degrading from the inside over time an shedding rubber crumbs into the fuel supply.
#30
02-15-2013, 09:56 PM
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Central West NSW, Australia
Posts: 143
It should be ok, just DON'T use ethanol fuel with it. It will probably turn the rubber to jelly over time and cause you nothing but grief. Worth checking if your carb seals and fuel lines are compatible as well. If they're not, don't run it.