Handlebar rookie

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  #1  
Old 03-30-2021, 08:45 PM
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Default Handlebar rookie

I'm usually pretty good about keeping my bike upright, but managed to drop it while navigation a tricky technical rocky section of trail recently. It landed on the left handlebar and, as expected, the stock bars bent.

I'm wanting to upgrade to an aluminum unit and there are LOTS of options out there. I really don't want to have to mess with longer cables, wires, etc - wondering if someone here could recommend a few options close to stock in terms of bend, rise, rake to prevent me from messing with the controls too much.

 
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Old 03-30-2021, 10:17 PM
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I'd say go to a shop near you that sells MX stuff and look at the Renthals. Pick them up and feel the bend. Any standard MX bar of any bend will work. The high bends may not. I know the CR bend is fairly popular among riders. But if you can get a pair in your hands you will know if the pull back and angle is good. Here is a link to a chart at Revzilla click here



 
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Old 03-31-2021, 07:25 PM
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I replaced the stock bars with Pro Taper CR Mid bend on my 21 KLX300. They have a slight more rise than the OEM bars.The clutch cable is pretty much at it's max with just a "tad" of slack at full left lock. Not tight enough to replace the cable though. Throttle cables have a little more slack than the clutch so all is good.
 
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Old 03-31-2021, 08:26 PM
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Same exact story - but I used the Pro Taper "Charmichael" bend. At full extension, both the clutch cable & brake hose are at max, a little uncomfortably so. I did order a 2" longer brake hose from Core Moto and a KX300 clutch cable, I intend on swapping out soon. IMO, you should opt for a braided brake hose regardless.
 
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Old 04-01-2021, 05:29 AM
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What do you guys do to get around how the stock controls have pins to hold them in position on the stock bars while aftermarket MX bars have no such holes?
 
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Old 04-01-2021, 12:03 PM
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If I recall correctly, the plastic cable supports were only used for the electrical harness's coming from either side of the handlebars. I didn't drill new holes to put the pins back in and just left the cables loose for now. They don't seem to be interfering with anything. If I feel the need to reattach them to the bars I will use zip ties loosely fitted.
 
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Old 04-10-2021, 01:45 PM
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Another question...

While looking at various options, I've noticed that some after market bars do not have the cross bar. Always assumed it was needed for strength. But maybe I'm wrong?

Anyone here running handlebars without the cross bar? If so, feedback?
 
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Old 04-10-2021, 02:29 PM
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1 1/8 inch bars, aka fat bars don't have a cross bar. 7/8 inch bars do. The fat bar gets it sturdiness from being thicker (larger diameter) than the 7/8 inch therefore not needing the crossbar. My Pro Taper CR Mid Bend is the 1 1/8 fat bar.
 

Last edited by dualindalton; 04-11-2021 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 04-11-2021, 03:08 AM
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Ah, thanks for the clarification.
 
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Old 04-11-2021, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by dualindalton
1 1/8 inch bars, aka fat bars don't have a cross bar. 7 1/8 bars do. The fat bar gets it sturdiness from being thicker than the 7/8 inch therefore not needing the crossbar. My Pro Taper CR Mid Bend is the 1 1/8 fat bar.
You musta got really fat bars at seven and one eighth inches!

I have to pick on you for the typo.

As for strength it isn't the thickness it is the larger diameter. Larger diameter of same thickness will have significantly greater rigidity. Of course the aluminum in either diameter bar will be thicker to have similar strength to steel, chrome moly, not the mild steel of stock bars. Some of the fat bars do have crossbars as well, but most don't, allowing some flex for rider comfort, having a bar pad for the clamp area.
 


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