You might be the first to run those guards on this forum...??
Those low bend bars are definitely not helping matters. High bend would probably fit better.

 

Typically the aluminum handguard loop has to be bent to accommodate whatever bars you have. Some require more custom bending than others. Eyeball them as well as you can with the plastic removed. Then just clamp them in a sturdy vice with a cloth or cardboard piece for protection and give them a tweak. It may take a few tries, but you'll get'er done.

The guards look great and I love my KX Low bend bars.

Good luck!

Bill Dragoo
Ride Oklahoma
www.rideok.com

 

So which side should I be "tweaking"? The bar end or the middle section with the slot?

 

I was puzzled at first, but realized that I was working against the grain so to speak inattaching the handlebar screw in first, then trying to line up the bark buster bars with the clamps.

Try putting the bars on the clamps losely, (everything loose but connected at the clamp part including the clamps) then bending the bars over to mate with the handle bar ends.

Put the screw in all the way, adjust the bark buster bars (typically downward to be low in wind resistance and to cover the clutch and brake levers) and then tighten it all up.

The trick for me was attaching the bark buster bars to the clamps first, then to the handlebar ends. There was NO F'en way it was going on from the handlebar ends to the clamps.....[:@]

 

It appears that you might have to bend both, but they really don't look that far off. Open up the bend a little out near the bar ends. If it's a 90 degree now, make it, say 95 degrees to bring the slots closer to the bracket. Once the ends meet, twist the bark-buster to allow a flat contact with the bracket. As DirtSurfer said, leave it all loose until it mates up like it should. When it's all tightened, nothing should beunder a lot of tension. A little is ok...hard to get it perfect, but too much and you could end up with cracking at a stress point over the long haul. You may have to coordinate lever positon and bark-buster bending to allow the levers clear the busters. Some people cut the levers off to facilitate this. You'll know what you have to do when you get there, but I'd suggest not cutting unless there's no other choice.

You'll get it.

Bill
Norman, Oklahoma

 

I also had some minor difficulties with my MOOSE guards.......

As all have said above, alittle pull here and push there........it all works.
Definatley put the bar ends in last and tighten everything equally.

If you are using the rubber hose method, be extra careful not to let the nut fall into the bars!!!!
Never loosen it too much!!
You may also notice small nubs on some of the controls, they are used with the stock bars....
you can just grind them down some. I used tape as not to scratch up the bars too bad.

I like the look of those handguards!!!!

Dave

 

I just ordered the some guards but got the raptor bend bars.

 

I don't know if this makes a difference or not........but..........

I put mine on while the bar was attatched to the bike, this way I could adjust fittment with all the controls in place...........you don't wanna strip the heads by loosening and tightening too much.

Don't know if that matters or not...............?????

Dave

 

For the clutch side I am putting on an MSR Pro Raptor shorty clutch lever/perch. Its one beefy assembly thats for sure. The brake side I'm pretty sure it will fit fine but if not I don't have a problem with cutting the ball off. With the aluminum bars there is no rubber hose, the bar insert is knurled and wedges into the bars. I think I'll mess with them this weekend, its hovering in the single digits presently and its unpleasant working in the garage at this temp as the heater doesn't cut it and the fluorescent lights are dim. I'll post some install pics if/when they go on.

THANKS GUYS!