Well, I got my jetting done. I also got a Twin Air filter and threw that in with the 24 main jet, the new spring, and the needle on the middle notch with the washers up top of it. I now have two issues that developed. I now have very little oomph in my idle, it'll die on a flat surface. And also, I've got a bit of a strange issue in cold temp.s. I rode to work today and when I got off at 11 pm it was 23 degrees outside and there was a nice, decently thick layer of frost on my bike. I started it with the choke and it got up to about 3500 rpm and started to flutter (usually wait til 4000 when it's that chilly to warm it up a bit more before taking off). I've had this problem to the point where it will kill itself on the choke. So, I took my choke off as that was my only way home and rode off. The bike stalled at nearly every stop sign and almost every time I pulled my clutch in. I've had this problem about 3 or 4 times.
So, I don't really know what's wrong. It had the strength behind the idle before I rejetted and I can't really remember if the weird stalling issue happened before the rejet or not (my gut says it probably did). So, my (often wrong) thoughts are that the idle strength is related to needle position or a/f screw, I don't really know which way I'd have to go to get more (or maybe less) fuel in there on the needle. And the only thing I can think of for the stalling is the frost maybe forming inside of the carb or airbox (no lid) and then melting and mixing the water with the fuel coming into the motor... I also got some advice from another member stating that I'm probably running too lean at idle with the airbox lid off (I had it off before and after jetting which is the only reason I'm not quite in agreement with this theory).

Any opinions are welcome,
Mike

PS. Sorry for the book. Also, completely amazed with the change in mid and high rpm range power difference.

 

Carb icing up, my klx will do it at 50 deg f
you could be a little lean in the pilot jet

 

I was wondering if your idle is erratic / hanging idle .

 

Did you adj your idle air screw?
If you didn't, your idle mix is off. Screw it in and out after the bike is warmed up at idle, once you find your highest idle speed, turn it back in till it idles a little slower, then out 1/16 of a turn.

 

When it starts in those cold temps that I mentioned, then yes the idle is a bit low. When the bike is warm the idle sits right at 1250-1300.
I kinda did this. It was 30 something degrees out when I did, and I was getting really pissed of between freezing one hand and burning the other (can't hardly get my chubby fingers in there to turn the little bit that I have). This weekend it's supposed to get in the 40s and I will most definitely do this. This would be for the no power at idle, correct?

Also, rode the bike this morning to my 8 o'clock class. It was 25 degrees with a wind chill of like...15-17 or something like that. It did not maintain an idle at any of the stops on the 10 minute ride there until I was about a block away from the school. I think Pete may be right, I wonder if throwing some heet or something similar in the fuel would help with this.

Thanks for the replies,
Mike

 

And when you do this, count how many turns it takes to go in. It's a good reference. Seat the mix screw LIGHTLY. It seems most of us run around 2 turns out, but they are not all the same. With the bike warmed up and turning the mix in all the way, if the bike dies, turn up the idle speed until it will run with the needle (edit: mix screw) all the way in, then back it out and find the sweet high-rpm spot as durielk says. If you can't find that sweet spot, get back to us.

 

Will do, thanks.

Mike

 

The stock pilot jet is fine, try running your lid on and off to see which is better. Carb iceing, I don't think so as I ride mine in the snow alot and it ain't an issue with or without the lid. Maybe you diaphram got pinched or something and take your air screw out 2 -2 1/2 turns from an easy seat.