I'm talking about yanking the tank off to access the top of the carb and pull the needle vs. wrestling the throttle lines and carb out of the frame. the 128 is a good baseline. a t-screw for the a/f screw would be encouraged too, but if you're good (like me, lol) you can get to that very slowly and replace it w/o moving the carb at all. it's the main that is hard to change w/o the carb being out. I've heard some say they've spun the carb, but to me, that sounds like more work than just removing it as you still have to remove the throttle cables and loosen the boots. I suppose it may be easier since you don't have to remove the carb from the frame. If you can do it, kudos for you. I've honestly never tried spinning it to swap jets. Now you've got me wondering just what a 130 DJ main would do compared to the 128 I have in there. If I can spin the carb to swap, I just may try. I just went back to the 13-tooth sprocket up front; wow, I had forgotten just what a wheelie machine the KLX is with that sprocket on with the full Muzzy and other mods.

 

Done!! Bike runs great!!! I was really dreading trouble shooting, and fine tuning the carb after the initial carb mods. The bad boy fired right up, and really thumped. Definitely louder than stock, but nowhere near too loud, a nice low toned thump thump thump. No hesitation, no bog , no decel pop. I can feel the extra zip, although I think I was expecting a little more. With the bike back together and running so well I wanted to get out on it. I told my 7yr old son to grab his helmet, and we blazed out. We put down about 60 miles of back country, and gravel, roads before finding our way home. Thanks go out to all those who have posted up the useful things they have learned about these bikes.
My previous mods: smog plumbing, chainguard, kickstand switch, seat strap, rear fender extension, all removed, Moose 13t sprocket, fabbed up license plate bracket with led illumination, fabbed up front brake line protection, fabbed up skid plate, Ken Sean folding mirror, Renthal bars, Moose barkbusters with roost deflectors, NoToil hi-flo filter.
Todays mods: N1tc needle w/ clip at 2nd slot, slide drilled 7/64, air-fuel screw 2.5 turns out (was 1.3), #130main jet, #38 pilot jet, FMF Q4 slip on, cleaned reoiled No toil filter (oxyclean works great, thanks Advrider forum) I'll try to post some pix tomorrow.

 

I can change the main jet just by removing the fuel bowl, leaving the carb' in place. It's tight, but if you take it slow it's no problem The key is to replace the OE screws with hex head bolts that can be undone from the side when the carb' is back on the bike. Still have to remove the carb' to change the pilot jet though.
Dan, good to here the bike is now really performing. Enjoy.

 

I put the allen bolts in the bowl earlier this year when I got it ready to jet for the mountains. I still had to spin the carb in it's boots, but I think spinning it you could do the pilot without pulling it. Here's a few pics of the bike with the new pipe and cleaned up a little.

plate bracket

brake line protection

watch with niteglow and thermometer

my custom fabbed skidplate

and lastly. The pipe clears the passenger pegs, but it's closer. I reached down to flip down the pegs for my boy and yaaaaaaahhh! burned my fingers. Wow I'm going to go cut my fingernails now. I guess thats what they look like when you seal your driveway and work on your bike all weekend, ha ha

 

Ouch!!!!!

 

Wana' put some Flamazine on those digits. Looks sore.