Good news and bad news
#1
Good news and bad news
Talked to the mechanic today. The good news is, he said the valves looked great, they were still in spec and looked like they'd be good to go for quite a while still. Said there wasn't a speck of dirt up there, either. He could tell I ride alot of streets I've got 9000 miles on it. I guess since I never ring the neck of the bike, I rarely rev it past 7K, I've been good to it.
Bad news is, the cam cover gasket was indeed shrunken and junk He said he tried and tried but it wouldn't go back, even tried glueing it. He said he's never seen a gasket do that before, they usually don't deform. Had to order me a new one (more money I don't have). So it'll be next week before he gets the gasket and the bike back together.
He also said he's not a fan of DynoJet stuff... he'd recommend I put the stock needle in. What do you guys think? He said the DJ stuff isn't hardened metal and has the tendancy to wear out, which might be why my bike is hard to start hot (or because I'm too rich). What do you guys think? Should I put the stock needle in? Or get the N1TC needle? I'm running the stock pilot... should I screw in the A/F screw maybe? Its too rich in low RPMs based on my feel and riding it (and the difficulty starting it hot).
Maybe start by screwing in the A/F screw a bit, see if its better? Then go for a different needle? I wanna keep the 128 main... or should I put in the 124?
Bad news is, the cam cover gasket was indeed shrunken and junk He said he tried and tried but it wouldn't go back, even tried glueing it. He said he's never seen a gasket do that before, they usually don't deform. Had to order me a new one (more money I don't have). So it'll be next week before he gets the gasket and the bike back together.
He also said he's not a fan of DynoJet stuff... he'd recommend I put the stock needle in. What do you guys think? He said the DJ stuff isn't hardened metal and has the tendancy to wear out, which might be why my bike is hard to start hot (or because I'm too rich). What do you guys think? Should I put the stock needle in? Or get the N1TC needle? I'm running the stock pilot... should I screw in the A/F screw maybe? Its too rich in low RPMs based on my feel and riding it (and the difficulty starting it hot).
Maybe start by screwing in the A/F screw a bit, see if its better? Then go for a different needle? I wanna keep the 128 main... or should I put in the 124?
#2
Don't listen to that guy, my shop is top notch, and that's what they put in my bike. The guy that did all my work is also a racer, if it wasn't a good idea he would have told me.
#4
Your shop guy is dumb and mis-informed about the jet kit.
And are you talking the valve cover gasket?? That should not shrink. He probably ripped it taking it apart and is feeding you a BS story.
I've re-used mine about 4 times now with no probs. A little RTV and it's leak-free.
I'd get a shop manual, or a new shop
And are you talking the valve cover gasket?? That should not shrink. He probably ripped it taking it apart and is feeding you a BS story.
I've re-used mine about 4 times now with no probs. A little RTV and it's leak-free.
I'd get a shop manual, or a new shop
#5
Well I've read somebody else on here (JE maybe?) said that his camcover gasket shrank and he couldn't get it back on, so I'm not gonna call BS on that. As for the jet kit, I was kinda leary when he said to put the stock stuff in. I think he's not familiar with how lean and mis-jetted this bike is stock. I can understand that the fact I've got it jetted too rich may be hurting my starting, but throwing the horrid stock jet and needle back in can't be the answer.
I've got the Kawasaki shop manual. Valves were just out of my league. But since he says they're still in good spec I won't have to worry about this for a while, and uh, I guess I'll just pull the cover myself and check them myself next time instead of paying him to say "Yeup its good" that's the only thing pissing me off. I'm gonna pay an hour's worth of shop time plus for a new gasket for somebody to say "Yeah it looks good."
I've got the Kawasaki shop manual. Valves were just out of my league. But since he says they're still in good spec I won't have to worry about this for a while, and uh, I guess I'll just pull the cover myself and check them myself next time instead of paying him to say "Yeup its good" that's the only thing pissing me off. I'm gonna pay an hour's worth of shop time plus for a new gasket for somebody to say "Yeah it looks good."
#6
Cliffsta-
I'm running the exact same setup as you on the DJ kit. 128 Main, stock pilot, and 2.25 turns. Mine runs perfect. I think they are all a little hard to start when hot. I've stalled mine on the trail and it takes 10 or 15 seconds to get it started but it hasn't been a problem. The big problem for me was when it was 20-30 degrees out.
I'm running the exact same setup as you on the DJ kit. 128 Main, stock pilot, and 2.25 turns. Mine runs perfect. I think they are all a little hard to start when hot. I've stalled mine on the trail and it takes 10 or 15 seconds to get it started but it hasn't been a problem. The big problem for me was when it was 20-30 degrees out.
#7
Well last weekend it flooded when I crashed and it would NOT restart for like an hour. Weekend before that, it was real hard to get going just after stopping. I'm riding in 90-degree temps... I'm thinking I've just got it too rich, particularly at idle. Idle A/F is controlled by the screw, correct? Or the needle?
#8
Well last weekend it flooded when I crashed and it would NOT restart for like an hour. Weekend before that, it was real hard to get going just after stopping. I'm riding in 90-degree temps... I'm thinking I've just got it too rich, particularly at idle. Idle A/F is controlled by the screw, correct? Or the needle?
#9
Cliffsta-
I'm running the exact same setup as you on the DJ kit. 128 Main, stock pilot, and 2.25 turns. Mine runs perfect. I think they are all a little hard to start when hot. I've stalled mine on the trail and it takes 10 or 15 seconds to get it started but it hasn't been a problem. The big problem for me was when it was 20-30 degrees out.
I'm running the exact same setup as you on the DJ kit. 128 Main, stock pilot, and 2.25 turns. Mine runs perfect. I think they are all a little hard to start when hot. I've stalled mine on the trail and it takes 10 or 15 seconds to get it started but it hasn't been a problem. The big problem for me was when it was 20-30 degrees out.
Well last weekend it flooded when I crashed and it would NOT restart for like an hour. Weekend before that, it was real hard to get going just after stopping. I'm riding in 90-degree temps... I'm thinking I've just got it too rich, particularly at idle. Idle A/F is controlled by the screw, correct? Or the needle?
I'm not running the airbox lid! When she floods, just drain the carb' bowl and you on your way again in less than a minute.
#10
Would a too-rich A/F screw be the cause of difficulty starting when hot? How does one drain the carburetor bowl? I'm running the stock pilot jet, so all I can figure is my main jet is too big or the A/F is too rich. The needle is on the middle clip.