It's a 2009 50 state bike. I've had it for 2 years and an now regretting not buying the extended warranty. I was having trouble with it, so figured I would tune it up and do a few things since I had to take half the bike apart anyways. I have changed the oil and filter, spark plug, air filter, removed the air box lid, dyno jet kit for the missing airbox lid and stock exhaust (dynojet needle, number 3 groove, 3 washers, 124 main jet), installed t handle extended fuel screw 2 full turns out (initially 3 turns out but seemed to idle better at 2) cleaned the carb, adjusted the float height, and removed the crankcase breather tube from the airbox and installed a crankcase breather filter to an extended tube. You are right, I should definatly check the spark plug again. The one I replaced looked fine. I did not check the spark plug today as I was in a pretty ****ty mood when I got home. In fact, the bike is still sitting in my truck. I'm at a loss to what else to do to it and it doesn't help that the problem does not exist somewhere convenient like my driveway or my block. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Oh yeah, and I removed the smog stuff.

 

I pulled the new spark plug, it is fine.

I am contemplating returning my bike back to stock to see if my problems go away or not. My questions in another thread regarding removal of the smog stuff are unanswered so not sure if that is giving me trouble and I followed the dynojet instructions for which main jet to put in. The instructions did not say to change any other jets. I don't know if this is my problem. Or if the float assembly is my problem. And if none of these are my problem, then the bike is gonna have to go to someone I guess.

 

Try to keep things in perspective. Something like this can happen to any mechanical device...stock or modified. It's a machine, and things can happen. It can be fixed. There's no guarantee that after you "push the KLX down the hill", as you said, or sell it to someone else, that the next motorcycle you buy won't develop a problem or issue of some other type. Actually running down and fixing a problem on any vehicle usually ends up being a real learning experience with a lot of satisfaction. And then once you identify and handle the problem, you know it's fixed, and you've gained some valuable knowledge.

Motorcycles in general but dirt bikes specifically are one of those types of vehicles that you almost have to expect some mechanical issues over time. And while we might want all our vehicle issues to always be under warranty and only have problems when it's convenient, we all know that's unrealistic. The good news in your case is that it didn't leave you 30 miles out in the desert with no assistance.

 

The tang that holds the float valve needle is not all that easy to get bent out of adjustment.

How did that tang get bent out of specs in the first place?

How do you know that you got the float level back into correct specs?

Sounds like the frustration level your experiencing warrants taking your bike to a real mechanic to fix your problems.

 

This can be really frustrating, and frustration fixing can suck a lot of the pleasure out of riding but I wouldn't let it get you down. Knowing you have gas in your air filter makes the problem very specific. The only way this can happen is if the carb overflows and that is regulated by the float and the float needle and seat... those are the only 3 links in that chain. Given all the other things you've fixed I really don't think this will be any problem for you at all. You'll feel better as soon as you get it sorted and ride again.

 

@TNC - agreed, vehicles break down, require repairs and maintenance, but this is the only thing I have purchased new (first year street legal in CA), only has 3600 miles, and only sees asphalt and fire roads which are mostly gravel. It's not exactly abused.

It's frustrating because it does not break down when I take it for a test ride (with help ready).

I have removed the line to the carb that I mentioned in the smog thread and ordered a new float and float valve. I was going to order those to begin with but I was convinced by others that my bike was too new and just needed a cleaning.

@RaceGass - I adjusted the float height by the gas height inside the carb. Attached clear tubing to the drain hole, looped it up, attached carb to gas line, hold carb level, open fuel valve, open drain plug, observe fuel level in clear tube. Adjusted to specs in the manual. Going off of memory, I think spec is 0.5mm above where the 2 halves of the carb meet +/- 2mm. Something like that.

Sorry, don't mean to sound like a newb. I was upset last night.

 

the first time i did the jetting and put my carb back on, turned the fuel on and it was running out the overflow onto the garage floor.
I took the bowl back off and carefully put it on making sure that it was not stuck.
The way i made sure was to put a hose on the inlet and tried to blow through it.
With the carb empty and right side up i could blow air in it meaning the float was hanging down and the needle was open. Then while blowing through it i turned the carb upside down and the needle seated. I did this several times before i put it back on. You want your float on the low side of the specs. the float bowl can be slightly low on fuel and run right but if it is high, it will over flow when idling, or sitting not running.
No problems since.... try it!! : )
Also, since you say you installed the DJ kit, check that the diaphragm is installed correctly above the slide, and put back the stock slide spring for a while to see if that is your culprit. i had a problem with the DJ spring.