Hey buddy, now you're making me nervous..
You can't seriously be confused regarding the difference between installing components inside your carb and setting the fuel screw.. can you ?

If you can't find a #40 pilot jet, but DO find a DJ144/K158, just leave in the #35 and do-up the rest of the carb mods.. The #40 increases throttle response, and rideability improves, but does not add power to the power curves.
With MCM, it fully unleashes the TRQ produced by the cam retime on every throttle twist..

Good luck, I'm worried that you're really gonna need some... You screw this up - and can't fix your screw-up - your bike is down until someone fixes it. Better read my link below on issues, problems, fixes..

 

I think I'm confused because of this statement. First, you said to adjust the air-fuel screw 3-3 1/2 turns out. Then you mention the #40 pilot 2 turns out at sea level?

On second thought, since your fuel screw cover is still on the carb, you will need to use the drill bit and screw to remove it.. You DO need access to your fuel screw. Try not to destroy your fuel screw (and carb) with that bit by drilling past the cover and into the casting.. Set your fuel screw 3 to 3.5 turns out. A #40 pilot jet is not required for your non-MCM bike, but it is recommended - with a setting of 1.75 - 2 turns out (near sea level)..

 

Ok Ok.. All internal parts are fully secured (tightened)...

Any reference to "X turns out" , "2 turns out", anything about "turns out" is talking about the fuel screw setting - which is an external adjustment . Once you remove the cover ( over the fuel screw), you'll understand..

 

I word my postings (usually) very carefully - with an ulterior motive.

You are focused when you read. When confused, you do not hesitate to ask questions. Those are the most important traits to have - with those traits, we can help you succeed.
However, this carb setup session is beyond your skill set. If you hadn't already bought all the "stuff", I'd have told you to read n research more on the CVK (from my threads, etc..) For instance, when " #40 pilot jet at 2 turns out" makes sense to you, you understand the relationship between the pilot jet, the fuel screw, and the pilot system circuitry - and if you know that, you might also know not to set a disassembled CVK down on a table in such a way as to destroy the float setting. Or to be wary of the needle jet falling out, and to not reinstall it upside down ..

 

I only start jobs like this when I'm %100 sure of how to do it. I've taken carbs out before but never rejetted. Reading CVK34 list of issues,problems,fixes thread now. Lots of good info you have posted. I really appreciate you doing all this and sharing. I also appreciate you following up on all my questions. I'll be fine. Thanks to your help. Lots of pictures ,mark the hoses ,take my time.I'll be fine.

 

NOW UR TALKIN !

Eye of the Tiger !
"Go get em Ray" (Ghostbusters)
"Git'er Done" (Larry)
"Truth and Honor" (Gladiator)
"We are not afraid" (Morpheus)
"Yeah Baby Yeah" (Austin P.)

 

Got it out. Installed the new koube air fuel screw. Jetting tomorrow. Question...Is this last tube "middle of the middle picture" ,above the header the one that needs to be capped off for de-smogging? And it looks like I have to take off the idle control screw to get to the carb cap. Do I have to make note where it's set at before removing?

 

De-Smogging question - Not sure what/which hose you are asking about.. Cap off the lines that were involved with the "canister" - DO NOT use the little neoprene caps on the carb, intake manifold, and head as they will fail. And when they do fail, you'll have a big problem to solve... I used a section of the original hoses with a properly sized bolt screwed into the end(s)..

I don't understand your thinking, on removing the idle control - I can't see anything it is getting in the way of...

 

 

Perfect !
That's the way it's suppose to look... You can see that the super glue is needed to keep it "all together" while installing it..