No need to attempt to talk to DJ about the lidless recipes. I tried numerous times while working up the lidless recipes on the dyno. With the data proving the need for MUCH larger main jets when lidless, I tried to have them explain why this was happening. They finally admitted that they used a stock KLX with the stock exhaust system to develop their kits - so the kit (2152) is not optimized for our mods, even just adding a full performance exhaust system takes a KLX outside the envelope the kit was developed for - I have always felt that the inclusion of the DJ132 main jet in the kit (without any instructions on how to use it ) was a late attempt to address full exhaust systems when run with a stock airbox configuration..

They have no clue what happens when you pull off the airbox lid on a KLX250S. I do, but I had to gain that knowledge on my own, from researching the CVK carb.

DO NOT run your bike lidless with ANY main jet smaller than a DJ144 or K158. Order the DJ144 from DJ,or pick up either from a local tuning shop..

You will not need, or use, anything out of the kit except the needle, clip, and both washers. This includes the instruction page. So take those 4 items out of the kit and toss the rest..

On second thought, since your fuel screw cover is still on the carb, you will need to use the drill bit and screw to remove it.. You DO need access to your fuel screw. Try not to destroy your fuel screw (and carb) with that bit by drilling past the cover and into the casting.. Set your fuel screw 3 to 3.5 turns out. A #40 pilot jet is not required for your non-MCM bike, but it is recommended - with a setting of 1.75 - 2 turns out (near sea level)..

Both lidless recipes use ONLY the top most clip setting (1N in my parlance) .. This requires both washers to be super glued onto the top of the clip in order to keep them in place during reinstall..

The instructions on either of my tuning threads below on my signature line, are concise and easy to follow - follow them to the letter, no deviations..
The lidless recipes are not experimental. Mod the bike for the recipes, do the lidless setup on the carb, and you get the "published" results..

 

Got the pipe on.So I have to order the stage 2 kit and a DJ144 main jet? When you say superglue the washers onto the clip do you mean the two washers together then put on clip or actually superglue to the clip? Is there a thread where this is explained?

 

Clip on top notch. Since there is not enough room left above the clip for the washers to remain in place while reassembling, you have to super glue both washers on top of the clip.
The pointy end of the needle is its' bottom, the end with the notches is the needles' top..

If that is the stock header - and not a Muzzy header - you must use (and order) the DJ140 main jet..

 

It's a Muzzy header. Heatshield looks the same as stock. Ordered Dynajet stage 1-2. Looking for a #40 pilot jet. Is it the VM-22 ?

 

Find everything you need to know on any one of the two "tuning" threads below..

 

Ok stage 2 kit on the way . My local Kawi dealer says he has a drawer of jets and I have to bring in my old jet to compare to get the #40 pilot. Most everything online is $10 + $8 shipping week wait. Damn! So my bike is lidless ,FULL Muzzy exhaust with Performance header. Install ...DJ144 needle with two washers superglued at 1N DJ0228 main and #4o pilot. Keep stock spring ,do not drill slide! Air fuel mixture screw out 2 turns out? I'm at 50 foot above sea level.

 

Sounds like you've got the knowledge and are on the right track..The #40 pilot jet is optional for your bike so don't sweat it if you don't find one in the dealers' drawer..

If need be, on the stock #35 pilot jet, set the fuel screw to 3 or if possible without it becoming too loose, 3.5 turns out..

BTW, I assume your bike runs perfectly fine - lidless recipes will not "fix" a sick bike, and will usually make it worse...

Looking forward to the 1st ride report !

 

My bike runs perfectly. No cold starting issues everyone else has. It use to have cold start issues until I learned the shake trick. Put the choke on ,push the button and shake the bike. Starts right up. Wish I'd learned that long ago. So if I'm running non-mcm mod , pilot "35" is ok but #40 better? Still glue the washers on 1N correct? Once you glue the washers there's no going back? Example ...Pull the glue off and re-do? Where exactly do you put the glue and how much? I don't want to mess this part up and it's the one part I'm a little nervous/unclear about. Thanks!
Oh, BTW what's the proper size screwdriver to use on our klx carb? Do you recommend a Kouba t-screw to replace the air-fuel screw?

 

Hey, you're gonna be fine.. Do what you know to do - you got this..

Just stop sniffing glue the day before you wrench on your bike..

I've never heard of the "shake method" - but it certainly makes sense !
Most in here robotically tell peeps to open up their CVK's and drill out the starter jet ..

 

OK. Got my jet kit. I got the 2182 for the 2009 klx250sf instead of the 2152 . They assured me the needle was the same? ,Going today to try to find a DJ144 or K158 main. And #40 pilot. Just wondering before I start digging into the carb, what am I going to gain or lose in running the #35 pilot over the #40? Keep in mind I'm not running MCM mod.
And just to be clear, both the main and pilot jets need to be screwed in all the way correct? The only one I back out is the air fuel screw after taking out the plug?
Laying off the glue sniffing for today thanks.