I am suddenly wanting to ride the TAT on my 351SF Atlantic to Pacific, but wanted to hear from others about the stock CVK jetting; will my slightly lean jetting at sea level be too rich in Colorado as I would expect? Will the bike run well? burn a lot of gas? I have two possible strategies: 1) Bring several main jets and step down in size as the bike gets too rich 2) Refit my air box lid and maybe a KDX220 snorkel and lean out the jetting as needed at sea level; when I climb the Rockies it will be easy to remove the lid to lean out the mixture and put it back on when descending. My other question is tire related. I would hate to wear out a pair of Dunlop D606s on the east coast states' pavement and easy gravel before they are really needed, I have read they won't last very many miles, so I was wanting feedback on Duro Median tires on the TAT. I suspect they will be great until the OK mud and beyond. Anyone use the Duros on the TAT or read about them being used? Is the idea of carrying an extra pair of tires on the bike crazy heavy? As I will probably go solo I would like the extra security of having backup tires with me. Other than extra tires I intend to travel light and cheap. Thoughts? Experience? Hit me!

 

I got nothing on the carb....

D606's will wear out fast if you don't keep them aired up on the road. That being said I regularly get 4000 miles out of a rear that I don't bother airing up to hit pavement but I'm not usually loaded (which you will be). I have ridden a brand new D606 1200 miles on pavement before I got to dirt and I was very glad it was on there when I did.
I would not carry extra tires, this isn't remote Africa where you know you won't find a tire. It might slow you down to have to go search for a tire while on the trip, but not as much as having to haul them with you might (think broken frame from too much weight slinging around off-road DAMHIK).

 

I know what the TAT is, but I don't think I've ever seen the range of altitudes listed from highest to lowest. Then there's the other issue that many veer here and there from the main established course for one reason or another which possibly changes the altitude. Have you checked your altitude range on the route you're taking?

Here's another thing about jetting and altitude on trips. An example, if you're going to Colorado to ride around Silverton, Lake City, and other high altitude locations for a week, it's probably worth and maybe necessary to rejet some. But if you're going cross-country and just passing through the occasional high altitude pass, it may not even be worth rejetting for such a short duration. In many cases you're literally talking a few minutes. The engine may burble a bit due to richness, and the idle will change, but if you're up and over in few minutes and back down to where your jetting is more ideal, you probably don't want to be breaking out tools and pulling the carb for such a short stretch.

If while you're on the TAT you decide to stay an extra day or two or three to ride high altitude locations just because...well...that may change your plan for rejet. Depending where and how long you're riding at altitude changes everything. And sometimes people get too wound up around the axle about rejetting for every change every time.

 

So what pressure would make my D606 tires last the longest on pavement stretches? Maybe I can make them last until Oregon then buy some Duro Medians for the ride back on the road.
Will do some longish rides in the east to work-up to the big one in the next year or two.
And Thx TNC for the opinion on jetting. I think I may just bring some jets just in case but plan to not use them except as a last resort.

 

This will help with the jetting http://thunderproducts.com/product/d...bike-kawasaki/ There has been a few TAT riders on KLX's they've all made it over the high passes. A little down on power and some said they almost had to push it over the pass but it chugged on over.

 

Something in the 25+ psi(IIRC) range for road riding will greatly improve the miles you'll get before the ***** disappear. You still might need a tire along the way...I just think you'd be better served riding on a tire you know and if need be replacing it along the way (which shouldn't be too hard to do).
Personally I'd love to do the TAT and TET.

 

Have one in both the 250 and the 650, never any problem over a 5000 ft range from Daytona to the mountains in West Virginia.

 

Snap just asked - and got my recommendation for jetting - what I'd like to post here for the membership is for everyone to remember a couple-o things:
1. Overly rich jetting does not cause engine damage. Overly lean does.
2. The CVK will self-adjust for higher altitudes, but cannot compensate for lower altitudes.. For instance: If you are jetted correctly for 5K ASL ops, you are "good to go" for 5k and up alts. However, lower than 5K ops will be lean. The further below 5k you run, the more risk you incur.
3. Jet changes should always involve two (or more) jet sizes, up or down, to have any significant affect on the fueling curve. For instance: If running a DJ144 , the significant changes to fueling will begin with a change to a DJ148 or a DJ140...

 

Thanks for your good info. I guess I will have to get back into the carb and install some of these other jets I have laying around. I have done no long rides and don't want to damage the engine on a long haul. I have most DJ sizes from 136 to 150 and an untried 40 pilot, still have the 35 that has always been in there. So current is 35 pilot and 144 main with 2N if I remember correctly, will try 40 and 148 1N this week.

 

Some folks will purchase or ship tires at a future destination of a long trip, and thus they are waiting for you when you get there. Perhaps you can do that.
My only feedback for tires - Been using Shinko 244 on the back, and it gets traction in all conditions I've encountered here on the west coast. Sand, gravel, rocks. Haven't had any muddy encounters yet, so no opinion. I typically ran 22 - 25 psi, knowing there would be some freeway speeds involved.
Typical pure dirt pressures(10-14 psi) can cause a knobby to chunk at freeway speeds.