Front tire flat issues

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  #11  
Old 05-18-2011, 04:18 PM
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I had to put rim locks on after busting a brand new HD tube at the valve stem. The rim locks are something like 2.4 / 4.x oz on the front/rear and the weight is very noticeable in wheel vibration when on the road. Added some of those sticky wheel weights on the opposite site equal to the weight of the rim locks and it's much better -- not exact -- but better. The front was worse than the rear, even though the front rim lock is much lighter (probably a function of total wheel mass and sensitivity of forks). So...if your going to ride slab and put in rim locks, you may get vibrations and need to balance it out.
 

Last edited by IDRIDR; 05-18-2011 at 04:21 PM.
  #12  
Old 05-18-2011, 08:01 PM
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Agree with this on the weight. I added 5$ worth of stick on weights to my wheels and the ridiculous out of balance condition is now as good as OEM without the locks. There is no negative. The rim locks are pretty cheap too.
 
  #13  
Old 05-18-2011, 08:08 PM
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The new plastic rim locks from MotionPro are a lot lighter. Whichever version you use, once they are rebalanced it's like they aren't even there. If possible get the weights that crimp onto the spokes. And that nut on the valve stem is an assembly aid. Once everything is together and inflated, (as others have said) run it up against the valve cap.
 
  #14  
Old 05-18-2011, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by WestOzKLX
Are you snugging the valve stem nut up to the rim? If so then don't. This will give the valve no room to move if the tyre slips on the rim some. A common mistake for those new to off road riding. Secure the nut up to the valve cap. If running pressures less than 15 PSI then a rim lock is highly recommended.
This was probably the issue. I had the nut tight against the rim, so that is probably tearing the tube at the base of the valve stem.

I run 16 PSI minimum and usually up to 20PSI since it's a combo of hard pack dry desert with sand in the washes. I can glide through the sand washes if I keep my momentum. So the higher pressure setting works well. I do hit a lot of very deep ruts and square edge step ups and trenches at a decent speed out here. So that's where I think the tear happens from the nut being too tight on the rim. Hence, my nut is the issue (man that sounds wrong!).


I will pick up a MT21 front today with rim locks. My rear is worn out too since it has about 2,000 miles on it and I felt like a flat track rider yesterday (a little too much fun that almost put me into a few cacti).

I found Trackside Rim locks for $10 in the proper size. Probbaly well worth the investment since I am tearing up $30 Moose Heavy Duty Tubes. Also investing in bark busters as well since I learned everything in the desert has thorns.
 

Last edited by TexasFlyer; 05-18-2011 at 09:34 PM.
  #15  
Old 05-18-2011, 10:33 PM
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I have to admit that I didn't know about loosening the valve nut. I always tighten it. I guess that just tells you how good rim-locks work.
 
  #16  
Old 05-18-2011, 11:00 PM
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Check the inside of the tire for "pointy/sticky" things sticking through before replacing the tube.
 
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