Front suspension clicker
#1
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What exactly am I supposed to be clicking? The copper colored little flathead in the middle, or the whole hex shaped thing? I turned the little flathead to the right, and no clicks, it just got a little tighter was all.
I can find anything to click the hex shaped thing with. Any suggestions?
I can find anything to click the hex shaped thing with. Any suggestions?
#3
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+1 use the flat head. It should click about every 1/2 turn or so if I remember correctly. If you are looking up from the ground at the adjuster clockwise will tighten it up.
#4
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If you are turning it clockwise and its tight that means its in all the way and its on the highest compression setting. Someone aparently has already done this. Remeber to put the bike up on the stand and let the air out of the forks as well once in a while. Its a small screw near the edge of the fork. Not the one in the center.
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Last edited by JasonFMX; 03-29-2011 at 07:23 AM.
#6
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`06-`07 KYB forks (maybe `09 also)
The brass screw at top is likely just an air bleeder. The damping adjuster is at bottom of forks inside the big hex socket, under some irritating-to-remove rubber plugs. My screws are small and silver, and were 10 clicks in (CW) from the factory. Total adjustment is 22 clicks in.
I backed mine all the way off (CCW) because the forks (and shock) are way over damped for this trials rider. Over damping makes the bike feel dead and heavy, but it will take a bike drop nicely. Will revalve later. I hate it when adjustement are out of range, and all you can do is adjust from too much to too much-er :-)
The brass screw at top is likely just an air bleeder. The damping adjuster is at bottom of forks inside the big hex socket, under some irritating-to-remove rubber plugs. My screws are small and silver, and were 10 clicks in (CW) from the factory. Total adjustment is 22 clicks in.
I backed mine all the way off (CCW) because the forks (and shock) are way over damped for this trials rider. Over damping makes the bike feel dead and heavy, but it will take a bike drop nicely. Will revalve later. I hate it when adjustement are out of range, and all you can do is adjust from too much to too much-er :-)
#7
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Yes, I was looking from the bottom up. I didn't have any rubber grommets, the bottom is exposed. If I have 22 clicks softer that's insane. It dives so much right now, I can't imagine any more.
I have never bled any air, and I'm sure the previous owner (1st 1k miles) didn't either. I will check that out.
Last edited by je2000; 09-29-2008 at 07:27 PM.
#8
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Last edited by JasonFMX; 03-29-2011 at 07:24 AM.
#9
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Not sure if I get you, you're saying the tightest setting is not tight at all, right?
I know you can always get new springs, but...that's more money away from other farkles I'd rather have.
I know you can always get new springs, but...that's more money away from other farkles I'd rather have.
#10
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I've been told by someone I trust that changing the valves will do more to control dive than springs will. Valves control up and down movement speeds. Springs control ride height & weight capacity. Think of the valves as the shock absorber on a car. and the springs as well the springs on a car. Hope that made sense. The clickers control the flow through the valves. Not saying you don't need springs too but if you're light like me You may not.
Last edited by gerrynolan; 09-29-2008 at 11:38 PM.