Got the rotor from my local dealer along with a set of pads.142$
They are guaranteeing me that it will fit the bike...if not he said they'd eat it and send it back.Their one mechanic said it fits just fine but you have to use different mount bolts for it....Either way they'll send it back if it won't work which is fine with me.They said we'll get the right one......good parts guys that always helped me out at this dealer so i know they mean well.
I'll keep you posted on what comes up.

 

nope, if you didn't get a rotor for the kdx bikes it won't fit. you can use different bolts, but they still have to be the same size. and the oem KLX uses thicker bolts than the 300 and KX bikesand thus won't go thru the smaller opening on the rotor they said would fit. unless it is for the kdx or your KLX it simply will not fit. no getting around that fact. take one of the bolts out of your rotor and see what we're talking about. there is a shoulder in the rotor like i said earlier- the other bikes' rotors do not have this and the mounting holes are larger in diameter on your KLX.

 

The rotor is listed to fit a KDX200/220,KLX250S,KLX250R,KLR650R
That is direct from the parts unlimited fitment guide.The mechanic there owns a KDX220 and is running the same rotor.I'd take his word on it.The different bolts he was refering to were for the 300.
Either way who cares....drill out 4 holes to use the correct size bolt?It doesn't take a rocket scientist to make 4 holes bigger in size.then just chuck an end mill bit to chamfer them in a drill press.sounds like a 10 minute ordeal.

 

good luck. I hate complicating things. If I had the info. you were provided in this thread when I was doing this I would have been ecstatic. You know what I would do- find a stock kdx rotor and call it a day. just me though. as I said before, good luck.

ps. I first bought an aftermarket rotor on ebay before I found the oem 300R rotor and it wouldn't fit like it claimed. I tried drilling it out and my 18 volt DeWalt and diamond tipped bittook over an hour to do what you see. I decided that for it to fit properly it was going toneed to be machined by an expert so I scrapped the idea. I just stumbled onto the oem 300R rotor and tried it. I sent it back to the seller for a refund. It's not a 10 minute job for sure. If you want this rotor, I'll sell it. It's never been used. make me an offer.

[IMG]local://upfiles/8647/ED620FD2945A4716910B4AEF797D9E23.jpg[/IMG]

 

here's another shot of this rotor I've had sitting around for two years nearly. If you're interested make me an offer. btw, there's an oem KLX300R rotor on ebay currently- front and back. the back is the older style but I prefer it in looks to the one on the '06/'07 KLX.

[IMG]local://upfiles/8647/F8FA3CDC0AD244DCBA5CA8DF26BC8C64.jpg[/IMG]

 

& note the aftermarket rotor is a 1 piece as I mentioned above

 

yes, good point i didn't even notice until you mentin. the oem one is a two-piece with rivets holding it together. maybe you already pointed that out klxer. Heck, I'd take $30 for this if anyone wants it. pads are what, like $25 or so? $142 seems absurdly expensive. I think I only paid like $60 for this one. I got half back as myself and the seller agreed since I had modified it he would credit me half as he couldn't sell it anymore.

 

OK LET'S CLARIFY THIS AGAIN. I AM NOT USING A KLX300 ROTOR.
also a diamond tipped drillbit won't drill much of anything with a hand drill.
Next time try a standard cobalt bit in a drill press at the slowest speed it will go and i can bet a paycheck it'll slide right thru it.we drill hardened stainless plate and Hardox 500 plate for loader buckets and trucks all the time like this and even the Ti-nitride coated bits won't do it.You must have a cobalt bit and use high pressure that only a drill press or a magnetic drill can provide.If the bit doesn't cut right away it's done aleady go get another one.Maybe it's because i'm a mechanic I don't think this is a big deal to drill a rotor.we have heavy equipment and rock crusher wear parts that make these rotors seem like a piece of tin in the hardness of metal area.....JMO.I was told the rotor i'm getting only fits 4 things....and even if the holes are too small i really don't care because it will get slapped in the press and drilled to the proper size....10 minutes...no biggie.I was already told by many people that the 300 rotor will not fit...I did not order a 300 rotor.

 

no one said you were using a KLX300R rotor. our posts werejust toeducate you on what will and will not fit. we're trying to tell you that a rotor that is supposed to fit a KLX300 or KX bike is not going to fit a KLX250S like your list says will.
I was just trying to save you some money. I'd hate to think I got over $150 in my front brake rotor and pads for this bike w/o having a ss brake line or updated master cyl. It doesn't go fast enough to warrant the cost of the mod imo. if you wanted better braking feel, you should have installed a stainless steel brake line with some premium pads. I just don't see the material in the rotor as being a factor in stopping abilities with this bike. but to each his own I guess. if you plan on going off road or getting wet, your iron rotor will rust as well. good luck.

 

First off my stock brakes need to be replaced which is the only reason this is taking place.second...150$ for pads and rotor is cheaper than a new kdx rotor or risk buying a bent one off of flea bay.
Rotor material makes a huge difference in stopping power.never had a problem with the brake feel.They feel fine just need a little bit more bite that's all.The bike also goes plenty fast to get you in trouble in the corners on the street.