fork spring replacement
#1
03-31-2007, 08:37 PM
fork spring replacement
Maybe we should make this topic a sticky since it is a common upgrade. Add pics and tips too.
I replaced two sets of springs on these bikes without taking the forks out.
For future DIYs if you don't plan on replacing fork oil also
It takes about 30 minutes to do it this way.
1. Support bike under frame with a floor jack and 2X4 with the front tire off the ground. If your rear tire wants to come off the ground instead, place a weight on the rear tire. I put my bike in gear and used a tie down strap and dumbell to weight the rear tire.
2. Remove handle bar mounting bolts and hold bars forward with a bungee cord.
3. Loosen fork caps. When it is clicking on every turn, that means it is loose.
4. Lower bike down slowly until the top forks are about a 1/2" from bottoming out.
5. Use a 17mm wrench and unscrew the fork cap from the rod (I don't know what it's really called).
6. Pull the fork spring out slowly so you don't looseany fork spring oil.
7. Pull the rod up as high as you can and slide the new spring down as far as you can without letting go of the rod. Then place the 17mm wrench on theskinnypart of the rod at the bottom. The wrench should be inbetween the coils of the spring.The wrench should be holding the rod up now and not letting it drop back down in the tube.
8. Screw the spring down until ittouches thebottom of the fork.Only screw it down until it touches. There should be no tension on the spring. By doing this, the threads on your rod should be high enough to screw the fork cap back on. Do the same on the other fork. There are also some preload measurements that need to be taken during these steps to make sure your spring compresses about 1/2" when the fork cap is tightened to the rod. This is where the preload spacers come in handy if yours is off.
9. Lift the bike back up and torque the fork caps back on.
10. Install handle bars
11. Bounce the bikea few times to make sure there is no obvious problems andgo ride to see if anything does not feel right.
It also helps to build a measuring gauge to make sure your fork oil is even on both sides. Especially if you've leaked a little oil from dirt in your seals. I used a small round rod with a zip tie on it to measure the oil.
I did one bike without anyone to helpsupport the bike, but if you have a buddy tosupport the bike, I highly recommend it.
I replaced two sets of springs on these bikes without taking the forks out.
For future DIYs if you don't plan on replacing fork oil also
It takes about 30 minutes to do it this way.
1. Support bike under frame with a floor jack and 2X4 with the front tire off the ground. If your rear tire wants to come off the ground instead, place a weight on the rear tire. I put my bike in gear and used a tie down strap and dumbell to weight the rear tire.
2. Remove handle bar mounting bolts and hold bars forward with a bungee cord.
3. Loosen fork caps. When it is clicking on every turn, that means it is loose.
4. Lower bike down slowly until the top forks are about a 1/2" from bottoming out.
5. Use a 17mm wrench and unscrew the fork cap from the rod (I don't know what it's really called).
6. Pull the fork spring out slowly so you don't looseany fork spring oil.
7. Pull the rod up as high as you can and slide the new spring down as far as you can without letting go of the rod. Then place the 17mm wrench on theskinnypart of the rod at the bottom. The wrench should be inbetween the coils of the spring.The wrench should be holding the rod up now and not letting it drop back down in the tube.
8. Screw the spring down until ittouches thebottom of the fork.Only screw it down until it touches. There should be no tension on the spring. By doing this, the threads on your rod should be high enough to screw the fork cap back on. Do the same on the other fork. There are also some preload measurements that need to be taken during these steps to make sure your spring compresses about 1/2" when the fork cap is tightened to the rod. This is where the preload spacers come in handy if yours is off.
9. Lift the bike back up and torque the fork caps back on.
10. Install handle bars
11. Bounce the bikea few times to make sure there is no obvious problems andgo ride to see if anything does not feel right.
It also helps to build a measuring gauge to make sure your fork oil is even on both sides. Especially if you've leaked a little oil from dirt in your seals. I used a small round rod with a zip tie on it to measure the oil.
I did one bike without anyone to helpsupport the bike, but if you have a buddy tosupport the bike, I highly recommend it.
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Pastor Dude
1500 Classic, 1500 Drifter, & 1500 Nomad
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08-10-2009 01:13 PM