Fork Spring Install

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  #1  
Old 03-24-2007 | 11:11 PM
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Default Fork Spring Install

As most of you know, I've sold my KLX but just a week or so prior to my getting the KTM, I got some 0.44 rate front fork springs that I had planned to install. When I sold my bike, part of the deal was to install those fork springs. So here it is, the final installment, perhaps my last KLX mod, at least for a while.

Overall the install is very simple, not bad at all. Oddly I was not sure what to expect and that created a good bit of anxiety for doing the install. So hopefully this little photodocumentary will at least alleviate fear of the unknown so you know what to expect in doing this mod.

First off, remove the fork, you can't do it with them mounted. Well, you might be able to but save yourself the trouble and remove them it will go a lot easier. Just remove the front wheel as normal, remove the brake caliper and the fork guard to free the brake line. Loosen the triple clamp bolts and removed one fork. I recommend doing just one at a time and leave the other mounted that way you can do one and put it back on and make sure to get its height in the triple clamps exactly like the other one and you won't accidentally change your settings.

Once the fork is removed, clamp it securely. I happened to have an old triple clamp laying around that is perfect for holding the fork If you don't have one, just use a block of wood or something and be careful clamping it in place so you don't damage the outer tube.





Use a 30mm socket or open end wrench to loosen the top cap. You may need to hold the bottom tube to keep it from spinning as it nears the point of separation:





Support the bottom to raise the internals up over top of the outer tube:



That is so that you can get a 17mm open in wrench in between the spring coils to hold the lock nut and loosen the upper cap:



Once removed, the spring will become free and the internal rod will slowly sink to the bottom:



You can use a magnetic telecoping rod to pull it back up:



Remove the old spring. Here's the new spring ready to install:



After the spring is in place, use the magnet rod to fish up the internal rod. While holding the rod up with one hand, compress the spring a little bit with your other hand, then with your third hand, thread the end cap back onto the rod:



Slip the 17mm wrench back between the fork spring coils and tighten the end cap with the 30mm socket:



Remove the supports under the fork leg and tighten the end cap back down:



Pretty straight forward. Reinstall the fork back into the triple clamp making it the same height as the other one.

One down, one to go. Repeat the procedure for the 2nd fork.

The result feels great, makes a big difference. I only took a short spin around the neighborhood and it definitely handles better. Still nice and plush but it doesn't dive nearly as much when stopping as the stockers did. I didn't go off-road because it's all cleaned up for delivery to DirtSurfer, but I bet it makes a much more dramatic difference there than on the street.

So ... there ya go, DirtSurfer. Springs all installed and checked out. BTW, your bike is running great - feels awesome. Definitely more comfortable than the KTM. The KLX is soooo smooth, like silk. I'm going to miss her. Too bad I couldn't keep both, but the CFO says no.
 
  #2  
Old 03-25-2007 | 12:48 AM
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Default RE: Fork Spring Install

Nice write up Brian. You don't happen to have a T-handle mixture screw for the CVK laying around do you?
 
  #3  
Old 03-25-2007 | 12:54 AM
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Default RE: Fork Spring Install


ORIGINAL: mmatz
You don't happen to have a T-handle mixture screw for the CVK laying around do you?
Nope, sorry.
 
  #4  
Old 03-25-2007 | 01:58 AM
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Default RE: Fork Spring Install

Very nice writeup Brian.

Vurtle and I planned on doing a writeup when he did ours, but we got too busy baby-sitting and trying to keep all the tools and parts from walking off.

Vurtle did mine on a jack stand that he could raise and lower so he didn't take the fork tubes out of the clamps. We just lowered the jack stand to put the front wheel on the ground to push the internals up out of the tube. This method works pretty well as long as you have a solid stand or someone to spot the bike when you raise or lower it.

 
  #5  
Old 03-25-2007 | 04:05 AM
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Default RE: Fork Spring Install

Nice work Nobrakes. Kind of ironic that you are selling her just as you've got the bike fully rounded-out. The only thing missing is that Renazco seat
 
  #6  
Old 03-25-2007 | 05:25 AM
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ORIGINAL: tremor38

Nice work Nobrakes. Kind of ironic that you are selling her just as you've got the bike fully rounded-out. The only thing missing is that Renazco seat
Yeah, I talked to James Renazco when it was a little up in the air what I was going to do and put a hold on the seat build. Once the KTM purchase was finalized, I rang him back and he's making one for my KTM instead. The KTM needs it more. I used to think the KLX seat was hard, but after getting on it after getting used to riding the KTM the KLX seat feels very soft and luxurious.

Well, I was going to upgrade in a year or maybe two anyway, my schedule just got accelerated a bit.

I just did the first valve check on the KTM and took a quick spin afterwards to make I didn't screw it up too badly. It's interesting riding the two bikes and thinking about their differences. The KLX, as modded, has plenty of power yet is soft, plush, and luxurious, smooth riding and shifting. The KTM on the other hand is a rocket. Every twist of the throttle pulls you back in the seat. I wound through the gears a little bit and before I even realized it I was going nearly 60 in my neighborhood in a very short distance. Ooops. But comfort wise ... nada. The seat is a 2x4 and the suspension seems more designed to soak up boulder sized obstacles at high speed and is pretty stiff.

So, the KLX is like a light SUV - smooth, stable, plowing over bumps and debris, plenty of power, comfortable, easy to handle, goes anywhere. The KTM is like a sports car, light, agile, responsive, loads of power, you can feel terrain underneath you, point it, pull the trigger and it goes like a bat out of hell.

I like both, actually. Who knows, maybe I'll buy it back from DirtSurfer someday.
 
  #7  
Old 03-25-2007 | 05:44 AM
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Default RE: Fork Spring Install

ORIGINAL: Nobrakes

I used to think the KLX seat was hard, but after getting on it after getting used to riding the KTM the KLX seat feels very soft and luxurious.

So, the KLX is like a light SUV - smooth, stable, plowing over bumps and debris, plenty of power, comfortable, easy to handle, goes anywhere. The KTM is like a sports car, light, agile, responsive, loads of power, you can feel terrain underneath you, point it, pull the trigger and it goes like a bat out of hell.
Yeah, I was thinking about the Renazco, but I waited too long. We're at the beginning of riding season over here, so I'm going with a ready-made aftermarket seat (locally available). This seat has much better foam and the ride height is about one inch lower. It also has a gripper cover, so you're not sliding back and forth. Very good reviews on it so far.

I'ts hard to image anything being less compfortable than the KLX seat, but I guess that's possible. To me, it feels great for about the first 20-30 minutes. After that, the overly-soft foam starts to concentrate the pressure right it the ol' 'Grand Canyon'. I would much prefer a firmer seat.

Sounds like the KTM is much more suited to the places you like to ride.
 
  #8  
Old 03-25-2007 | 07:29 AM
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Default RE: Fork Spring Install

crap!!! i thought i was done... that looked too easy. thanks for the pics.
 
  #9  
Old 03-31-2007 | 05:55 AM
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Default RE: Fork Spring Install

Brian and Gang,

I replaced fork springs the other night and wanted to try it without taking the forks out. I had read a few other articles and comments from someone else here and thought this route would be easier. Having never done any fork work before just have to say this job is fairly easy and only took about 45 minutes to do both forks. I did forks and shock spring for my weight from MotoPro and this made a huge difference in comfort and performance.

Here is what I did differently:

This is how I set the bike up. I jacked the bike up then used a floor jack to raise the front assembly, to release the load from the caps.

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Picture after raising the front tire with the floor jack. I found out that you have to loosen both caps to release the spring tension.

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Another way to make it easier was to place the 17mm wrench under the nut to keep the internals from falling back down inside the fork. You can then just thread the spring over the wrench then grab the shaft before it falls down into the fork tube. The wrench will hold the internal parts up while you get the new spring. You then hold the shaft, start the spring over the shaft then slide the wrench back in, under the nut. Then thread the new spring back down the wrench. You can actually thread the spring down far enough to collapse the spring and thread the cap back on easily. This eliminates the need for the third hand.

Hope this makes the job a little easier for anyone out there with questions.
 
  #10  
Old 03-31-2007 | 07:41 AM
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Looksgreat Brian!!!

Can't wait to try it out on some dirt. I'll be sure to give you the comparison update since I now own two KLXs, (and will CONTINUE to own two until my son finishes the payment!!!)

I'm getting a bit anxious about owning both a Muzzy and and Big Gun Muffler. I'm already starting to argue with myself...[:@]
 



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