Fork bleeder screw
#1
Fork bleeder screw
I hope this isn't a dumb question. I don't see the bleeder screw on the tops of my forks. How do you bleed the pressure out of the 09 250s? And is anyone using bleeder valves on the 09? Thanks !
#4
Ehh...OK - let ME ask the stupid question: Why should I want to bleed the front fork of my '09 KLS ?
OK - must admit I can guess part of the answer; get excess air ut of the tubes......but why should this modern construction contain more air than needed for an oil/air damped fork ?
I mean; the manual should say "XX mm/inches of space from oil level to top of fork - then screw caps tight"
If You follow this - how do you get excess air in tubes - change in barmethic pressure or ?
OK - must admit I can guess part of the answer; get excess air ut of the tubes......but why should this modern construction contain more air than needed for an oil/air damped fork ?
I mean; the manual should say "XX mm/inches of space from oil level to top of fork - then screw caps tight"
If You follow this - how do you get excess air in tubes - change in barmethic pressure or ?
#5
Ehh...OK - let ME ask the stupid question: Why should I want to bleed the front fork of my '09 KLS ?
OK - must admit I can guess part of the answer; get excess air ut of the tubes......but why should this modern construction contain more air than needed for an oil/air damped fork ?
I mean; the manual should say "XX mm/inches of space from oil level to top of fork - then screw caps tight"
If You follow this - how do you get excess air in tubes - change in barmethic pressure or ?
OK - must admit I can guess part of the answer; get excess air ut of the tubes......but why should this modern construction contain more air than needed for an oil/air damped fork ?
I mean; the manual should say "XX mm/inches of space from oil level to top of fork - then screw caps tight"
If You follow this - how do you get excess air in tubes - change in barmethic pressure or ?
The only reason the '06-'07 model KLX has the valves is probably because the component spec was still more closely tied to the KLX300 off road-only model. I think they should have left them in there, but I'm sure someone smarter than I at Kawasaki knew better.
#6
There's a little relief in teh casting where the valve should go. I imagine that you could add them if you felt so inclined.
It was a cheap out move. The valves would have cost a buck so they were skipped. Just like the skidplate and lame handlebars.
It was a cheap out move. The valves would have cost a buck so they were skipped. Just like the skidplate and lame handlebars.
#8
I'd be shocked if they didn't interchange, as it's basically the same KYB fork with a slight travel reduction. I see that the new price is over $70 per cap. I think I'd just drill mine and install an actual schrader valve. Then you could unscrew the valve cap with your fingers and then bleed the air with your fingernail...no tools needed to bleed.
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