first ride conclusions

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  #2  
Old 04-14-2006, 02:42 PM
incabiker's Avatar
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Default RE: first ride conclusions

I think you will have to buy the KLX 300 piston etc... to get it to run like a high performance mx machine, if that. The carb mods will definatley help with the throttle response, and the 13 tooth will give you more leverage. The carb mods are good enough to slide you back on your seat when you change the gears and gun the throttle, but it will still not loft that front wheel up unless you are in extremly low gears and play with the clutch alot. But this is what I like about the bike, it takes you where you need to go without beating the hell outta you, and its got enough power to do that.

I really am considering a road bike in addition to this fun little bike. I would like a cruiser that I won't have to worry about getting on the high way with and be able to ride it for a couple of hours without gettina a sore butt.
 
  #3  
Old 04-14-2006, 02:50 PM
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Default RE: first ride conclusions

It's a totally different bike with the mods and Muzzy pipe and lowering the gearing. Will it be like a KX250F? No. It makes about 32HP. With the mods your probably looking at around 25HP (about 6-7 more than stock or a 30% increase) and a bike that's 50lbs heavier.

It's not fair however to compare this to a full on MX machine. It is however, the most powerful dual sport bike under 400cc, has the best suspension, brakes, and overall package. I came from a 900cc sportbike, but I'm know better than to try and compare the two bikes.


The side of a fork may work as a kife sometimes, but it's still not a knife.
 
  #4  
Old 04-14-2006, 03:31 PM
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Default RE: first ride conclusions

Well, I finally unloaded my new KLX today. And as I was slowly suspecting, it is a big time pooch. That is not to say I didn't have fun on it, because I did. My 6-year old daughter loves it and looks real cool coming to softball practice on the back of it, but man it doesn't have any *****.
No powerband to speak of, mushy suspension, will NOT wheelie w/out serious clutch action. I seriously do not know why Kawasaki would build such a bike with no power to back up the killer looks. Now, here are the positive things I noticed- very smooth, very good on the highway at 60mph, all the doodads like the passenger footpegs, the cool instrument panel, fit and finish is top notch, go anywhere anytime capabilities.
I do not want you to think I dislike it, because I bought it for pete's sake knowing this was not a high performing bike. I just wanted a little something to putt around on and take the kids for rides but being able to have a little fun myself off-road. I do not think this thing is for ex-motocrossers as it will not rocket out of a berm or ride power wheelies thru the gears. That's too bad, and I don't think all the mods you guys do would make it run like that. Maybe I'm wrong but horsepower seems scarce on this little poser, and serious ponies would probably cost a bundle. I do plan on buying the 13 tooth sprocket asap, maybe that will help. Has anyone modded it up to make it maybe run like a 2-stroke 125 as far as power is concerned? Just curious. Thanks

While this bike is not a MX bike nor a 125 2 stroke I have been able to stay with or beat all the guys at the MX track. first off its a 4 stroke so you have to ride it different (don't feather the clutch in corners) just one example. Second it does have a soft suspention but you can work around it. Me being an X-MXer I know what your talking about when you say rocket out of a burm and my KLX 250S does it. This bike does have power you just have to uncork it. Right know my bike pulls almost as hard as the KX 250F, but I lose on straits when running threw the gears.

Full list of mods all in all I dropped the bikes weight by 29 lbs

-MOTION PRO VORTEX THROTTLE
-VINYL BLACK NUMBER PLATE/PLASTIC BLACK PAINT
-XGX SKULL GRAFFIX KIT
-REMOVED SIGNAL LIGHTS(NOT REQUIRED IN NORTH CACKILACKY)
-BELL ULTRA LIGHT MOUNTAIN BIKE MIRRORS
-PRO TAPER CR HIGH BARS
-PRO GRIP THIN GRIPS
-SEAL SAVER DOGHNUTS
-13T AFAM C/S SPROCKET
-47T SUNSTAR REAR SPROCKET
-108L DID MOTOCROSS CHAIN NON-O RING
-ACERBIS TAIL LIGHT/ LICENSE PLATE LIGHT ASSEM.
-DYNO JET STAGE 2 300R KIT
-MUZZY FULL EXHAUST
-REMOVED SNORKLE, DRILLED 6 HALF INCH HOLE IN AIR BOX COVER ABOVE FILTER
-UNI 2 STAGE FILTER
-HACKED OFF REAR FENDER FRAME FROM HELMET LOCK BACK
-HACKED OFF HELMET LOCK
-TOOK OFF UPPER CHAIN GUARD AND HACKED MOUNTS
-N-STYLE NUMBER SETS
-REMOVED GROCERY RACK
-CYCRA STEALTH MX HAND GUARDS
-REMOVED AIR INJECTION SYSTEM
-REMOVED FAN
-VENTED CRANK CASE W/ 3/8 INCH DRILL
-WORKS CONNECTION SKID PLATE
-KENDA TRACKMASTER 2 TIRES
-ASV F1 CLUTCH PERCH
-MOTION PRO FORK PUSH BUTTON BREATHER VALVES
-REMOVED KICK STAND KILL SWITCH AND HACKED WIRE MOUNTS
-UFO BLACK FRONT FENDER

COMING SOON!
-FINALLY MOUNT MY IMS TANK(first one to have it last one to mount it)
-IMS FOOT PEGS
-.438 KG FORK SPRINGS
-5.8 KG SHOCK SPRING

[IMG]local://upfiles/1071/ED0ED7F73E4544FC9A51F00F5893590E.jpg[/IMG]
 
  #5  
Old 04-14-2006, 03:33 PM
sdunne's Avatar
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Default RE: first ride conclusions

managed to beat the yamaha and stay with the suzuki that passed me in the next corner.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1071/83CAAAEE35944D2F9C92CFC51F218692.jpg[/IMG]
 
  #6  
Old 04-14-2006, 03:34 PM
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Default RE: first ride conclusions

And yes you can jump the hell out of this thing.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1071/3BDF7F64C4684B7A9C17E5C29F480A29.jpg[/IMG]
 
  #8  
Old 04-14-2006, 05:29 PM
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Default RE: first ride conclusions

Iowaguy: the forks do have comp adjusters they are on the bottom of the fork you have to peel out the rubber caps. the screw on the top of the fork is the fork breather. rebound in the fork is controled by thickness of the oil in the fork.

for carb work I suggest buying the dyno jet kit for the 300r when you get a full after market exhaust.

I drilled holes above the air filter in the cover to get more intake I removed the snorkle. I run a 128 main jet so its good to have all the air i can get, or else I would be running too rich.

Also the klx 250s stock does not really start pulling hard till about 5500rpms now my bike pulls threw out the range and takes off under load at 3500 rpms.

If you do some of the mods that others on this forum have done you will see a big difference over stock. I have my bike running slightly different than most people on this forum when it comes to the main jet, needle position, and air intake. But I believe that most people on this forum have there bikes running a hell of a lot better than when it came from the dealer.
 
  #9  
Old 04-14-2006, 05:31 PM
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Default RE: first ride conclusions

Considering you haven't gone above 5,000 RPMs, I know why you think the bike is SOoooo weak. The sweet spot for this bike is between 6,000-8-000 RPMs. If I keep the bike below 5,000 RPMs I don't really like it. Take it out and hit 6,000 RPMs, it runs better there. Thats where alot of the power lies, its not gonna make it a night and day difference, but you will see once you hit 6,000 RPMs, you will like the bike a bit better.
 
  #10  
Old 04-14-2006, 05:34 PM
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Default RE: first ride conclusions

ORIGINAL: sdunne

Iowaguy: the forks do have comp adjusters they are on the bottom of the fork you have to peel out the rubber caps. the screw on the top of the fork is the fork breather. rebound in the fork is controled by thickness of the oil in the fork.

I thought that you had to adjust the top screws on the top before you could start messing with the Comp. Adjusters on the bottom, at least thats what I read in the Manual. Don't you have to unscrew the top ones with the wheel off the ground before you can start messing with the adjusters on the bottom of the fork?
 


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