First mod advice. *New*
#111
I have run through several sets in around 40,000 miles on my KLX650 getting around 4000 miles/set doing both front and rear when replacing and doing so when the rear lost too much grip and was flat in the center, not when bald.
I have a 4.10-18 on the back of the KLX250 now and it did well in sand and haven't had any problems anywhere so far. It is a well thought out tread and oddly enough it seems some of the Heidenau tires have come out with similar looking tread. I prefer the narrower lighter tire, takes less power and cuts through loose surfaces to get traction without bogging as a fat tire would. Plus
The cool part is how it works on pavement when chasing my friends around on their supermotos. It sticks really well when you are used to them. The tread has a semi-paddle design. The ***** are webbed side to side, but not around the circumference, creating more **** stability when leaned into a turn, yet having good digging power going forward.
Can't tell I really like them, can you. They are really well priced too. I looked at them for a year or two back in the late 90s after I got the 650, but the low price put me off, they couldn't be good. Then when I was laid off and needed new tires I bought the Duros, about $120 for the pair. I haven't run anything else since then. If I ran a lot of off road I'd do a DOT knobby, but I don't. These are as close as you can get in my book, never had any problem running around with my buddies running the Kenda 270 and I'm betting it sticks better on asphalt. I used a similar design Yokohama and like the Duro far more.
I am not much of a mudder, but what I have encountered hasn't been a problem
Last edited by klx678; 04-26-2020 at 07:26 PM.
#113
So i was working ahead and tore my carb down and inspected for completeness and ran a wire through all the orifices and guess what.. i dont have a jet needle. The thing the collar pushes up to the needle is missing. I didnt even catch it until the second time looking at it. Also most videos on youtube dont even show the removal. Also the oring around the mixture screw was ripped.. im amazed. No wonder it ran like ****.. it all makes sense now too because i never rly understood how that needle controlled anything just hanging out there like thar.. ****ing done..
Parts on order. I picked up a 38 pilot, dyno kit still in the mail, kdx duct in the mail, adjustable mixture screw assy in the mail, jet needle in the mail, got my uni filter- waiting on the oil/clean kit in the mail.. umm i know theres more.
Hey on another note: the boot clamp screws are pretty ****ed up, can i replace these with normal worm clamps? Also i want to do away with the oem fuel filter and install a real fuel filter like some guys on here have.. while im at it i was thinking about running the 1st gas line (non reserve) over the frame to the percock instead of under it so i dont need to drain the gas every time i take the tank off. This could save time and effort if im going to be making frequent adjustments.
Any thoughts?
Best..
Parts on order. I picked up a 38 pilot, dyno kit still in the mail, kdx duct in the mail, adjustable mixture screw assy in the mail, jet needle in the mail, got my uni filter- waiting on the oil/clean kit in the mail.. umm i know theres more.
Hey on another note: the boot clamp screws are pretty ****ed up, can i replace these with normal worm clamps? Also i want to do away with the oem fuel filter and install a real fuel filter like some guys on here have.. while im at it i was thinking about running the 1st gas line (non reserve) over the frame to the percock instead of under it so i dont need to drain the gas every time i take the tank off. This could save time and effort if im going to be making frequent adjustments.
Any thoughts?
Best..
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