Anyone that is anywhere near sea level, and their stock bike will not idle stably @ 1250-1350 rpm, there IS a problem ! Period !

Don't fool yourself into thinking otherwise. The problem may be transitory (or minimalistic at present), and may be mitigated (not cured) by raising the idle, but there is a stable or possibly escalating issue at play..

A small vacuum leak, damaged fuel screw - from an ape-handed prior owner screwing it in too far with too much force, damaging its' tip, fuel delivery variances, valves needing adjustment (too tight), weak CDI/coil/plug/plug wire, bad grounding connections, etc etc etc..

Some/most of the issues can be ignored successfully, just raise the idle and ride on, but never forget that you've got an issue. It may become a major issue when you start performance modding..

 

If KLX250 is in Ohio he's around 1000 ft or more. I live in the Columbus area and I'm at 900 ft. If the bike has a stock pipe on it, there's a lot of noise from the sound track for a stock bike.

 

Yeah.. I figure that additional noise you and I are hearing may be from reverberations/amplifications of the engine area from the apparently enclosed area the bike was video'd in...

I can't draw a bead on whether his problem(s) with the bike are between his ears or actually with the bike - The vid: discounting the "seemingly extra" engine noises, all looks good to me...?

If the engine racket is "real", he likely has a valve adjustment problem ..?

 

It is loud. Lots of clack clack clack from the valve area I'm assuming. Sounds louder when I'm riding.

I did just get my valves checked at a Kawasaki dealer though and they said everything was in spec. They couldn't answer how far in spec though. For $140 I'm hoping they actually checked and did a good job.

I think my oil needs changed. Would this help the issue?

 

Listen to the right side of the engine. If the noise is loudest there, the cam chain tensioner is failing to work. If not, then all is well. Just sounded like a lot of clatter.

A dealer will not own up to the fact that they fail or they will sell you another that may fail as well. It allows cam chain slap. Usually on the KLX the noise is first noticed around 4000-6000 rpm, but eventually may be audible over the entire range. If the tensioner eventually allows too much slack the cam chain can jump a tooth on the crank and stick valves into the piston. Takes some time to get that bad, but it does allow variable cam timing when the chain goes slack.

Should you find it is the tensioner PM me. I've got a couple thousand KLX riders using the manual tensioner I made up at the request of some riders here and in the ADVrider forum. Took care of their noise problem and takes the slack out of the cam drive.

Again, no noise no problem, if noisy on the right side fix the problem.

 

Cam chain?
My god, I feel like I already know more about this bike than I ever intended to.

Is there an easy button. I mean in this thread so far we've covered allot. It is all valid but what's next? I'm already looking at my chain like it might need adjusted soon.

Sorry for the rant. The sound is definitely right side. Lol

 

I cant find a good video on cam chain adjust for klx250..

 

There is no "adjust" with the stock tensioner. It has the teeth of the plunger and the pawl get nicked and rounded off allowing the plunger to be pushed in under deceleration of the cam drive as the cams roll over the lobe peak and down the back side. That causes the chain slap which makes the clatter. If the noise is there you will know it. Another way to listen is to use a mechanic's stethoscope or long handle screwdriver putting the tip around the cam cover to listen for valves, then down around the tensioner area for the tensioner.

Here is a video

from a rider on the manual tensioner installation and adjustment.

 

Alright that doesnt seem too bad. I though I was going to have to go in from the top cover. I have a few questions and probably more as I get into it.

Can I use white lithium graphite grease to seal the gasket? im just asking because I have some and I'm trying to keep cost down.

Probably going to buy the Krieger since that's what the guy in the video.

Are there any tips/ tricks/ variations/ updated methods for this procedure? I noticed his klx is a 07, mine's an 09.

Is there a likelyhood of me destroying my engine if I dont get the tension right the first time before I start it?

Thanks in advance.

 

Go to the web site and email me. I will send a copy of the instructions for you to read. It is pretty simple and straight forward. Krieger Cam Chain Tensioners

I can give you a price quote too.