First mod advice. *New*
#51
#52
I'm considering getting a delkevic 8" exhaust.
1. Will this work with an aftermarket header pipe down the road?
2. Is this considered a good exhaust? The picture of the dyno chart says it takes it to 19.33hp. Is this significant compared to other exhaust pipes out there?
3. Will this exhaust support later mods like rejetting and air box mods or are there better ones to suit?
Thanks in advance?
1. Will this work with an aftermarket header pipe down the road?
2. Is this considered a good exhaust? The picture of the dyno chart says it takes it to 19.33hp. Is this significant compared to other exhaust pipes out there?
3. Will this exhaust support later mods like rejetting and air box mods or are there better ones to suit?
Thanks in advance?
#53
Read the sticky on exhaust options..
The Delkevics are only usable on the stock header and they probably still are without spark arrestors..BUT, they do have the O2 bung (And in the stock location) !!!!!!
So, if you are not going to ever buy a performance header, and if they are legal for offroad use (check for spark arrestor inclusion/availability) get one ..
The Delkevics are only usable on the stock header and they probably still are without spark arrestors..BUT, they do have the O2 bung (And in the stock location) !!!!!!
So, if you are not going to ever buy a performance header, and if they are legal for offroad use (check for spark arrestor inclusion/availability) get one ..
Last edited by Klxster; 02-01-2020 at 01:33 AM.
#54
I did the starter drill and it worked. I'm not sure if I actually drilled anything. I mean there was some resistance but I think it was just gunk. Also did the bolt kit swap and it looks great. I was also able to confirm it's a 118 and a 35 jet.
Bike started pretty normal. Maybe didnt have to have the choke on as long.
Bike started pretty normal. Maybe didnt have to have the choke on as long.
#55
After the test ride I think it helped. Only needed the choke on for about a minute then it warmed up the rest of the way without choke.
I did a search for idle problems and realized that my clutch didnt have any play and this was causing the bike to die when pulling the clutch from say.. 4th gear.. I loosened the clutch up allot and now I can slide around corners in 3rd/ 4th gear with the clutch on again.
also just got my gallon of oil from Amazon and my oil filter. Plan on performing my first ever oil change.
I did a search for idle problems and realized that my clutch didnt have any play and this was causing the bike to die when pulling the clutch from say.. 4th gear.. I loosened the clutch up allot and now I can slide around corners in 3rd/ 4th gear with the clutch on again.
also just got my gallon of oil from Amazon and my oil filter. Plan on performing my first ever oil change.
#56
Well done!
On the enricher jet, very little material is typically removed on this mod.
Check clutch lever play by turning the bars full left and full right. There should always be a little play in the lever at all bar positions.
On the enricher jet, very little material is typically removed on this mod.
Check clutch lever play by turning the bars full left and full right. There should always be a little play in the lever at all bar positions.
#57
Honestly guys I think my bike just needs the idle turned up a little. I'd like it to be at the factory setting but if you research the issue on the smaller bikes it looks like half the people had a low idle. Other half needed to adjust the clutch lever.
#58
If your bike is dying in 4th gear, that is more a sign of low idle setting than improperly adjusted clutch lever.
If the clutch cable is adjusted too tight, or loose, the clutch could unexpectedly engage or disengage when the bar is turned far to the left or right. Installing bar risers can also result in a tight cable and a longer cable may be needed.
Many of us turn the idle up a bit beyond factory/dealer settings. Heck, I often need to turn it up when I get to high elevations and the overly-rich operation causes the bike to sputter.
If the clutch cable is adjusted too tight, or loose, the clutch could unexpectedly engage or disengage when the bar is turned far to the left or right. Installing bar risers can also result in a tight cable and a longer cable may be needed.
Many of us turn the idle up a bit beyond factory/dealer settings. Heck, I often need to turn it up when I get to high elevations and the overly-rich operation causes the bike to sputter.
#59
Makes sense. Thank you for all the info. I was under the impression that if your bike doesn't like to idle at factory settings then it has a problem.
Thanks for clearing that up. Its funny because you can find tons of reports of these issues but nobody ever says how they fix it, which is what I'm trying to do here.
Thanks for clearing that up. Its funny because you can find tons of reports of these issues but nobody ever says how they fix it, which is what I'm trying to do here.
#60
Turn it up. FWIW supermoto riders run high idle as do some off road riders. Better to idle a bit higher than stall in their cases. Heck my EFI 700 idles around 1200 or so.