Hah, I was unaware of that. Now Ill have to rethink things.

 

Good news, it looks like the hinge is removable. I hopped up into the attic and took a picture of my old tank. It looks like you can screw on a new cap. Have at it!



On a side note, do you know how long the bike was sitting with that gas? You may want to consider pulling the carb and cleaning it now while the tank is off.

 

If it wouldn't unlock how do you know it was the same key? I can stick the key from the KLX250 into the lock on the KLX650, but it won't turn.

Regardless, as shown, the cap assembly unscrews and the same cap was used on a number of other bikes should you look for a used cap, per Kawasaki (and bookmark this link), part number 51049-1134:

Model (30):
KL250-D19 (KLR250) (2002)
KL250-D20 (KLR250) (2003)
KL250-D21 (KLR250) (2004)
KL250-D22 (KLR250) (2005)
KL250-G4 (Super Sherpa) (2000)
KL250-G5 (Super Sherpa) (2001)
KL250-G6 (Super Sherpa) (2002)
KL250-G7 (Super Sherpa) (2003)
KL250-G8 (CANADA ONLY) (2004)
KL250G9F (Super Sherpa) (2009)
KL250GAF (CANADA ONLY) (2010)
KL650-A15 (KLR650) (2001)
KL650-A16 (KLR650) (2002)
KL650-A17 (KLR650) (2003)
KL650-A18 (KLR650) (2004)
KL650-A19 (KLR650) (2005)
KL650A6F (KLR650) (2006)
KL650A7F (KLR650) (2007)
KL650E8F (KLR650) (2008)
KL650E9F (KLR650) (2009)
KL650EAF (KLR650) (2010)
KLX250H6F (KLX250S) (2006)
KLX250H7F (KLX250S) (2007)
KLX250T9F (KLX250S) (2009)
KLX250TAF (KLX250S) (2010)
KLX250TBF (CANADA ONLY) (2011)
KLX250TCF (KLX250S) (2012)
KLX250TDF (KLX250S) (2013)
KLX250W9F (KLX250SF) (2009)
KLX250WAF (KLX250SF) (2010)

If you go used either get the cap or verify that the key number is on the lock mechanism to get a key made and the seller will accept the part back if not. I looked to verify it, the key cut code is on the cap lock inside... which makes me think if anyone had this happen to them they could feed one of those fiber-optic cameras into the tank and look from the outside in... interesting. Kind of a "colonoscopy" for a KLX250 tank! You could also check to see if the lock mechanism can be gutted to allow use of any key.



One more comment, and take this the right way, I wish someone had pointed this out and led me a bit in this way. Don't resort to last chance tools so fast. A couple of guys I knew couldn't get the cases apart on their motocrosser they were rebuilding, so they pried the cases apart with screwdrivers - overlooking the one screw on the bottom of the cases covered with dirty crud! They got to put the engine together with nice new inner cases... for a chunk of change after destroying the originals. I've run into this kind of thing all the time. If it doesn't come out easily, figure out why. Often a screw, nut, or snap ring has been overlooked.

Learn to do things as close to right as possible now, it will pay dividends in the future. No threading a 1/4-20 into an M6-1.00 threaded hole because you want to ride. Get the right parts. Most general metric hardware can be found at a good hardware store, find one. Not everything has to come from the bike shop when it comes to hardware and round O-rings. Oddly enough my local Ace Hardware has some metrics, as does an old style place called Hardware Depot, housed in an old railroad depot building. That old style place has almost everything - gotta love that!

Why do I say this? Because I was young and foolish with both bicycles and motorcycles. Using wrong fasteners and wrong tools, screwing up my share of things.

Get the right tools too. You don't have to spend a ton of cash either. Harbor Freight has some decent wrenches for low buck, sure better can be had, but these are better than any Crescent wrench or Vise Grips. I've been using a cheap set of offset metric box ends for the past thirty or more years - made in India, like the ones at Harbor Freight. I just bought a combination inch/metric to have at school, I think it was $14 with a coupon for like 22 wrenches. Harbor Freight also has a fantastic deal on torque wrenches if you pull a coupon from a magazine. $9.99 for a 1/4 drive inch-pound, 3/8 drive inch-pound, or 1/2 drive foot-pound, Carcraft magazine tested and found them to be accurate. When it comes to sockets, don't cut corners though, get some Craftsman, Mac, Proto, or other name brand. If you look at the end of the socket you will see why. The depth to the flat surfaces (the hex) is significantly deeper on cheap sockets and can have the socket slip on a nut/bolt head.

If you are different than many of us you may already know that, but the screwdriver thing makes me think you're about like I was. Although I do hope you're better than the one farmer who crossthreaded a WOOD screw into a square nut on the rear axle carrier on a Honda ATC200!

 

or Lock Picking 101 • Forum for Lock Picking, Locks, Safes, Picks and Locksmiths and Eleven Piece Lock Pick Set - HackerStickers.com

 

I would spray a can of WD-40 into the lock before taking a drill to it. With low miles and rusty parts, I would assume it was left outside in the rain. You may just have a rusty cylinder. My helmet lock failed awhile ago. Flushed it with WD-40, cleaned it, and the used a dry lube and its been fine ever since. I'd work it before I'd destroy it.

 

Brieninsac, thanks for the pic, that is very helpful. Klx678, I agree with you 100%, just not planning on ruining anything but the lock.
DoubleD, I'll have to look at the lock picking site, didn't even think to look for something like that.
Lotrat, I used wd40 and pb blaster. I think something was jammed in or broke off in the lock, the key wouldn't go in all the way.

 

They DON'T go in all the way, only about 1/2 way in or less. You did verify the ignition key would unlock the helmet lock? If not, do so. If the key does not work on the helmet lock then it is likely the ignition lock was replaced, the key won't work on the other two locks (cap and helmet lock).

 

Good advice, most of us have been there when we started out

 

It worked on both locks, just not the gas cap.

 

The key also doesn't go all the way it. It goes further into the helmet lock than it does the gas tank lock.



If anything, I would cut some notches to access there screws. If you can fix your lock, just replace the bezel of get some security screws to replace the originals if you feel the need.