First Dyno Run > Not much for much money 2007 KLX
#41
w/o the mods i propably would have traded the bike in
for something stronger, now its just fine
no wheelie machine, but i need to mention im so worried to drop
that thing so i havent tried with shifting weight, i'll buy a cheap
125 for that *lol*
my bike is propably one of the cleanest, the only scratch came
from the dealer, i do love the bike and the attention it gets, and
the look on peoples face "whaaat? thats just a 250ccm?" (i wonder if they
cant read, it says 250 klx on the stickers...)
enough said, ocean city trip is coming closer, 170 miles one way, this
is going to be fun (not for my butt though)
ride on :thumbup:
#42
Thanks for the feedback
Regarding the HP increase when changing the gearing, i dont know much
about it but i believe if i change the gearing i do get more torque out of
it since it pulls harder right? So someone with 13/42 would have a better
dyno reading than someone with 14/42, correct me if im wrong
I'll add the smartchain and different gearing to fine tune it a bit, hopefully
the 250 ninjas are back in stock soon, i want one for weekend trips
Regarding the HP increase when changing the gearing, i dont know much
about it but i believe if i change the gearing i do get more torque out of
it since it pulls harder right? So someone with 13/42 would have a better
dyno reading than someone with 14/42, correct me if im wrong
I'll add the smartchain and different gearing to fine tune it a bit, hopefully
the 250 ninjas are back in stock soon, i want one for weekend trips
Don't confuse power and torque with energy.
The reason a bike accelerates more qiuckly when the gearing is reduced is because more energy is being tranferred to the wheel over a given time frame.
More engine rpms for every wheel rotation.
The engine charcteristics are not altered.
Torque is rotational force or pressure.
Power is the rate at which torque is applied.
Energy is for how long power is supplied.
Clear as mud
I believe a Dyno mearures a moment in time and is not concerned with Energy so final gearing should have no effect.
Last edited by neilaction; 08-29-2008 at 03:53 AM.
#43
Neil is right. Gearing doesn't increase or decrease the power. However, I've been told that an inertial dyno results may be affected somewhat by gearing, so it is possible it will have a small effect. I don't really know, though. I wish I had a dyno, I would play with it and let you know for sure.
If you want to maximize your dyno reading, you need to manage the losses in transferring the available power to the rear wheel and then on to the interial drum. For example, get a street tire as that will hook up the best on the drum. Use a non-o-ring chain (less friction), and hope for a competent operator to make sure the rear wheel makes very good contact to the drum and doesn't slip.
If you want to maximize your dyno reading, you need to manage the losses in transferring the available power to the rear wheel and then on to the interial drum. For example, get a street tire as that will hook up the best on the drum. Use a non-o-ring chain (less friction), and hope for a competent operator to make sure the rear wheel makes very good contact to the drum and doesn't slip.
#44
I try and ride it like it is a cheap 125
#45
Changing your gearing will not improve your dyno run....otherwise everyone would do them in first gear.
Actually 21-22 hp for a jetted and piped klx is about right.....don't worry about the other thread that posted 27 hp with basically the same setup as you.....If you put your bike on that miscalibrated dyno you would also get 27 hp.
If you want the hp .... a 331/340 jug will get you around a real 27-28 hp.
Just sayin.
Actually 21-22 hp for a jetted and piped klx is about right.....don't worry about the other thread that posted 27 hp with basically the same setup as you.....If you put your bike on that miscalibrated dyno you would also get 27 hp.
If you want the hp .... a 331/340 jug will get you around a real 27-28 hp.
Just sayin.
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