Exhaust hanger broke - MIG or TIG?
#1
Exhaust hanger broke - MIG or TIG?
I have the full Muzzy system and unfortunately it only uses one of the two factory mounting holes for the exhaust (the weaker of the two).
I'm not sure if it was just vibration, or a crash, or the really strong springs that pull forward on the exhaust can (adding tension to the weakly gusseted hanger).
Anyhoo... My question is about the frame - I have a buddy with a MIG welder but he said if the frame has any chromoly it has to be TIG welded.
So I'm thinking our frame is mild steel but not certain - anyone confirm?
Anyone else have this issue?
I'm not sure if it was just vibration, or a crash, or the really strong springs that pull forward on the exhaust can (adding tension to the weakly gusseted hanger).
Anyhoo... My question is about the frame - I have a buddy with a MIG welder but he said if the frame has any chromoly it has to be TIG welded.
So I'm thinking our frame is mild steel but not certain - anyone confirm?
Anyone else have this issue?
#2
Exactly the same thing happened on mine. I arc welded it.
Mig is fine. Even it it was moly, it wouldn't matter for a bracket.
If you aren't going to brace it otherwise, I would make a bigger, heavier tab, and brace it on the back. That's what I did after the original fatigued and broke a second time.
Mig is fine. Even it it was moly, it wouldn't matter for a bracket.
If you aren't going to brace it otherwise, I would make a bigger, heavier tab, and brace it on the back. That's what I did after the original fatigued and broke a second time.
#4
Very common. I didn't weld mine. I simply made an aluminum bracket that attaches in two different places, as I wasn't impressed with the one point tab. I used two other bolt mounts that were beefier, and I shaped the aluminum muffler plate to ride the length of the tubing on the subframe. Let's just say it's stout. It's been nearly two years now with no signs of flexing, cracking, or bending.
#5
Funny, mine just broke in the EXACT spot when I took the exhaust off last.
Was pondering what to do with it, this thread answered the Q's
TNC - I like that, you don't have a model drawn I could trace the bracket do you?
Or maybe I can bring it over to my neighbor and see if he can weld it for me.
What a weak mounting tab.
Was pondering what to do with it, this thread answered the Q's
TNC - I like that, you don't have a model drawn I could trace the bracket do you?
Or maybe I can bring it over to my neighbor and see if he can weld it for me.
What a weak mounting tab.
#6
Funny, mine just broke in the EXACT spot when I took the exhaust off last.
Was pondering what to do with it, this thread answered the Q's
TNC - I like that, you don't have a model drawn I could trace the bracket do you?
Or maybe I can bring it over to my neighbor and see if he can weld it for me.
What a weak mounting tab.
Was pondering what to do with it, this thread answered the Q's
TNC - I like that, you don't have a model drawn I could trace the bracket do you?
Or maybe I can bring it over to my neighbor and see if he can weld it for me.
What a weak mounting tab.
#9
The stock muffler attachment point is definitely a weak spot, particularly if the bike goes down on it's right hand side with a full size Muzzy like you have torquing on it!
Mine has not broken so far but if it does I will definitely be putting the little extra effort in when re-welding to add a triangular gusset plate or two in behind the bracket.*
I am hardly a professional welder but I have some formal schooling in MIG welding. *I think you'd be just fine using a MIG welder on the KLX sub frame (happy to be proven wrong though!)...
I'd be inclined to pull the sub-frame off the bike prior to welding however. This will ensure that the current from the welder does not damage the bike's electronics. *Some folks might be comfortable just disconnecting the ground, but I think I'd remove the subframe just to be safe.
Mine has not broken so far but if it does I will definitely be putting the little extra effort in when re-welding to add a triangular gusset plate or two in behind the bracket.*
I am hardly a professional welder but I have some formal schooling in MIG welding. *I think you'd be just fine using a MIG welder on the KLX sub frame (happy to be proven wrong though!)...
I'd be inclined to pull the sub-frame off the bike prior to welding however. This will ensure that the current from the welder does not damage the bike's electronics. *Some folks might be comfortable just disconnecting the ground, but I think I'd remove the subframe just to be safe.
Last edited by go cytocis; 12-24-2012 at 03:33 PM.
#10
The subframe doesn't come off our KLX's, does it? If you're gonna weld the tab, I think you gotta do one like yankee99 did. Otherwise just lop off the stock tab and clean up that area with a file or such and use a 2-bolt plate method like I did. My only concern about yankee99's tab is that the weld looks long and hot. Not sure what that does for the flimsy tubing in the rail of the rear fender mount. What I like about the 2-bolt plate method is that the aluminum is dissimilar to the steel and because it's bolted it can flex and give a bit instead of stressing the frame rail. But...all probably much ado about nothing in either repair scenario.