gerotor style pump. no specs or clearances given in the manual, but I have lapped a few damaged ones back to life. they tend to suffer when run low on oil because the metal from the head ends up going through the pump. the pickup screen 16097 is a maintenance item on the KLR.... known to be full of crap from manufacture. pita to get to because you have to pull the waterpump, I encouraged people to do them at tech days. most are at least half covered with sealant that broke loose. its a one time task unless you have had the low oil issue, then it needs to be cleaned & the pump either replaced or repaired. BTW, the screws have thread locker & heat is needed to remove them without damage

 

Ball/roller bearing bottom end engines run a relatively low pressure,but pressure none the less. It may have higher pressure to the cams, don't really know. I do remember the ball/roller cranks of the Z1 back in the 70s was low pressure high volume oil feed. My friend who told me that was a Kaw trained mechanic and darn smart besides, eventually owning multiple dealerships. Another friend got an oil pressure gauge for one, it ran around 10 psi at the oil feed. If I remember right the gauge would go up to 40 psi, but never needed much over 20 psi at most. Cams under normal situations wouldn't need much pressure. With the thin film of oil the pressure isn't as important as the volume fed to the cams.

 

yep...

 

Planning on pulling the oil pump pick up screen on my klx to clean it. Can I pull the larger side case cover off, or do I need to pull the clutch cover off first? Thanks

 

Okay final post on my cam journal issue. I did pull the screen and it was spotless nothing in it. Maybe a little tiny piece of sealant from Factory. I pulled the valve cover off today and pulled the cam plate off and my repair is holding after about a hundred miles. The bearing area looks perfect. So if I was going to do it again I would take a 1 in diameter Steel rod and cut it 5" long. Then turn 3 in of that down to .904"
Then use that as a tool to put in the cam journal with the top plate lightly torqued down with lapping compound to clean out the damage on both left and right journals of the exhaust cam. finish with a 1200grit minimum. You can go all the way to .006" oil clearance so you got some material that can be removed. Cheaper than buying a new head that's for sure

 

sweet!