I didn't know this at first, but it's recommended to change the inexpensive inner liner tube every 2 years. I know I went at least 4 before I replaced it during a regular tire change. In the years I've run Tubliss I've replaced the front and rear red inner liner once. The rear seems to wear quicker than the front which is logical. I go through a rear tire about every 6-9 months depending on trips and trail conditions. A front lasts 2-to-1 compared to the rear. I guess I got about 4-5 years out of the rear red inner liner and only recently replaced the front. Pretty sure my first ones were the first gen models. These newer ones look to be a little different and probably improved.

I've used tubeless Slime in these Tubliss setups, and it seemed to work. However, it's about the messiest thing I've ever dealt with when tire change time comes. I went back to Stan's. I use about 8oz. in each tire. You can check the level of sealant periodically. When you install 8oz. or whatever amount you settle on, jack the tire off the ground and let the air out of the tire...not the inner bladder. Put the tire valve at 6 o'clock. Use a thin zip tie like a dipstick inserted through the air valve and touch the far inside edge of the tire. Read the serrated side of the zip tie...makes a perfect dipstick. This is your full amount to check against anytime you want to read the level. Mine is about 1" on both tires.

 

I've had Tubliss in my KLX and Husky for the last three years and have no regrets. The only downside I've observed is about a 25% chance that you will have slow air loss if you don't use some kind of sealant. My KLX front would go flat in about 3 days until I added QuadBoss ATV tire sealant, hasn't gone flat in 6 months now. Like everybody says, keep carrying a front tube for emergencies...

Note: You will need about 4oz of weight opposite the valve stems to get things to balance. I used the NoMar chrome spoke weights.

A tenfold decrease (?) in the chance you're changing tubes on the trail - priceless

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Yep, forgot about the recommendation for an opposing weight across from the 2 stems. Makes highway/pavement speeds a lot more enjoyable. It's been on mine for years...so long I'd almost forgotten. Curious...on your ATV sealant. How is it during tire replacements as far as cleanliness?

 

TNC, should we add...

The instructions from Nuetech said to use a lot of soapy water to ease installation and ensure a good seal between the inner liner and the rim. But they also said if I was using Stan's or another sealant, avoid the soapy water and use the sealant for lubrication as the soapy water would interfere with the sealant.

Thad, if I recall correctly, you use soapy water and then add your 8 oz of Stan's. So, does that mean your dipstick measurement above is measuring the soapy water and the Stan's? I know my installation resulted in a lot of soapy water in the tire; I could hear it swishing around. Would a perfectionist try to remove the soapy water (I can see a shop vac with a very small tube that would fit through the valve stem) then install the Stan's?

 

Yeah, I use my fingers/hand to slather on some Stan's on the red inner liner and the inside of the bead of the tire. I use a tiny bit of soapy water sprayed on the outside of the bead...nothing that really affects the Stan's inside. The amount of Stan's that is applied on the red inner liner isn't a huge amount and probably does little to affect internal sealant level. I don't go crazy with a bunch of either soapy water or Stan's during installation. I find that if you get too crazy with the soap and Stan's on the install it's like wrestling a greased pig to get the tire bead all tucked under the rim. I've learned how not to pinch stuff and not booger up the bead. I kind of think that those who have had problems committed some boo-boos during the install...pinched high pressure tube, nicked red inner liner, etc.

 

I've been using Tubliss for about 9 months, 1300 miles, and 160 hrs of technical trail riding most of it rough and remote. Very pleased.

Using with IRC trials tires. Have been running as low as 7 psi for a plusher ride on rocky roads.

Love that dipstick technique, will give it a try.

Here are my supplemental notes to the Tubliss printed instructions:

Step 3B: Be sure to remove the valve stem from the bladder before mounting

Step 4B: Be extra-careful not to pinch the bladder; take very small bites with tire irons

Step 4c: Check bladder by inflating

Step 5: Always DOUBLE CHECK direction of tire rotation (should be an arrow somewhere) before inserting rim into tire

Step 7C: Inflate inner bladder to 110 PSI. Need to always do this FIRST or the outer chamber will leak

Stan's gets expensive because of my mountain biking so I recently mixed a batch of open source sealant. After reading many posts here is the recipe I used:

-16 oz latex mold builder from Hobby Lobby (look online for a discount coupon for any Hobby Lobby purchase)
-32 oz propylene glycol RV antifreeze (Wal-Mart or any RV supply)
-37 oz distilled water
-½ cup cornstarch

Seems to work the same as Stans.

Now, here is the first Tubliss problem I've had. It was just two days ago. Every day I check inner and outer pressures before riding. This morning I add a little air, all good. I gear up and half an hour later I ride away from camp. Realize the front tire is flat. Must have picked up a nail.

Go back to camp and put bike up on stand. Nothing in the tire. Not a hint of sealant anywhere on the tread or sidewall. Inflate the tire. Tire absolutely holds pressure. Proceed to do a 7 hour ride with lots of rocks. Tire pressure does not change.

The only thing I can figure is when I added a little air the valve stem stuck very slightly open. So the tire went flat while I was gearing up. When I inflated it again, this time the valve stem worked normally.

Any other ideas?

UPDATE: It is slow leak. I have put in multiple valve cores including Slime brand and genuine Schrader. Still leaks. I just keep a 949 Racing aluminum valve cap on it, and every other valve I have.

 

I haven't had to change that tire yet so I'm not sure, I think they claim easy cleanup.

Unfortunately the KLX doesn't get much use since dad's knee replacement so tires are lasting forever. I loan it to a buddy once a year and GF rides it a couple times a year. Will never get rid of though...

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My front inner liner went bad yesterday & it took me all day to get it off the mountain. Ended up just riding it slowly down to a gravel road. I'll second replacing the inner liner, I think they will last about one tire. It wore threw right at the 'rim lock'.

 

Though I haven't had to resort to any trailside flat repair/tube change in the years I've been running Tubliss, I still carry a 21" tube which will work in the front and even in the rear to get you back home or to camp. I've used this setup with tubed tires in the past, and it works.

With the Tubliss just yank out the liner, check for thorns and protrusions into the tire, and install the tube like normal. I pack a rag to wipe out excess sealant before installing the tube. The rear will be floppy, but just use some logic in how you position it in the tire. Don't worry about a rim lock, as this is just to get you back wherever you're trying to return.

Fold the liner and strap to your pack or the bike. I'd hate to destroy a good liner if I didn't have to.

 

I never have changed a tube on the trail, that would be very difficult for me. It's hard removing the tire/tubliss system. I didn't ever have a flat with tubes, and was hoping my worries were to be gone with tubliss,.... not true. With tubes I figure one might be able to leave the wheel on the bike by laying it on it's side, pulling the tube out and patching, maybe. I always ran HD tubes and never had a flat.
I think if I would have put a new inner liner in with the new tire I would have been GTG. And having everything that was suppose to be in the tire kit there, someone had scavanenged it for other stuff!