Current thoughts, experiences with Nuetech TUbliss 2.0? I don't generally frequent other riding forums so I don't know much about these but am curious. Pros/cons so far? Seems like the people who don't like these have either not installed or maintained them properly. Anything else?

Costs:
Tubliss per rim ~$90
Air pressure gauge to 110psi ~$15
Tubeless tire repair kit ~$10
Stan's sealant (generally recommended) 16oz ~$18
Good quality wheel weights, e.g. No-mar spoke weights (rec for street riding) ~$25

maintenance cost:
replace bladder every 2 years ~$20


Some intro links:
TUbliss Motorcycle Dirt Bike Traction Tires Tubeless

http://nuetech.com/tubliss/tubliss-f....1bge1HJ2.dpbs FAQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nrNpccioeWI This guy has follow up installation tip videos.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjBhkdPsNIA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IlpjfUcvss

What do the top extreme enduro riders use for a rear tire? - Page 10 - Off-Road Riding Technique - ThumperTalk Good tips

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...el-time-40995/

http://advrider.com/index.php?thread...visted.778029/

http://dualsportdiary.blogspot.com/2...o-tubliss.html a naysayer's pov. valid point on the weight of sealant if used?

 

1. supposedly makes your weight of your wheel and tire lighter vs a tube.

2. only good if you get a flat, the tubliss system is puncture resistant. you would still have a hole in the tire though.

3. cannot drive on the road with them......

4. good if you do a lot of offroading and don't wanna be stuck with a flat.

 

"2. only good if you get a flat, the tubliss system is puncture resistant. you would still have a hole in the tire though."
How does a plugged offroad tire hold up to say a patched tube? Do you plug the tire then begin looking for a replacement or do plugged offroad tires hold up OK?

"3. cannot drive on the road with them......"
Because not DOT rated?

 

I've been using this system for many years, and I wouldn't go back to tubes unless I could no longer obtain the Tubliss. I'm not the guy who has just used his bike for running around town or going to the local Starbucks. And while I'm not Johnny Campbell either, I have used my KLX all over the western U.S. for some decent and frequent off roading...a lot. I have never flated while using this system. I've had nails, wire, and other objects stuck in my tires that I've found back in camp that would have flatted tubes in a second. Using a sealant like Stan's or such is the addition that should be made to this system.

As far as no DOT designation, the inventor/founder of this system is not/cannot afford to go through DOT qualifications and also put up with all the liability idiots out there who would find an ambulance chasing lawyer to suck the life out of him for any pavement accident. Many, many of us using this system ride it on highways all the time without issue. There is no tube, so the system will run as cool or cooler than a tubed setup. There is a rim lock present in the advent of a total loss of air...just like a tube setup. There is no more "danger"...and probably less...running Tubliss on the pavement than with a tube. This is a technical/legal issue as to why Mr. Tubliss doesn't claim DOT qualification.

In the event of a flat with the Tubliss, you handle it much like you would a tube flat. Carry your spare tube...a 21"...like you always should with either tube or Tubliss setups. Take out your Tubliss inner liner, fold it in half, and bungee it to the bike somewhere. Install your spare tube and continue on...of course, checking first for objects in the tire that caused the flat in the first place.

A few of my really hardcore friends over on ADV who are freakin' off road wizards in how and what they ride have had some issues with the Tubliss in some of their gnarliest conditions with a trials tire in the rear. However, they seem to tear everything else up too, so take that into consideration...LOL!

 

I've used them for around a year on the KLX and haven't had any problem. I carry a tubliss tire repair kit along with the spare tube and haven't used either. No Stans in my tires, but I should put some in.

On the KDX, I followed Martin Hackworth's advice by using Bridgestone Ultra Heavy Duty (UHD) tubes. Those tubes are heavy, and pricey at about $30 to $40 each. If you're trying to lighten the wheels as much as possible, this isn't the way to go. BTW, Martin is the new executive director of the Blue Ribbon Coalition and founder of the Tour of Idaho. He claims to have never had a flat using the UHD tubes on his many ToI rides.

 

Yeah, I forgot to mention the beauty of being able to use a simple tubeless plug patch kit. I've done this back in camp in those instances where I found a nail or such stuck in the tire...tire still perfectly holding air because of the Stan's sealant. Scott, on the UHD tubes, they are indeed better than standard tubes by a good margin, but my nail and wire incidents would have flatted any tube. Where we rode in Utah that one year together, rocks and such don't seem to be a problem for much of anything except the knobbies on the tires to some degree. I've run into these nails and wire issues around those ancient mining areas in Colorado for the most part...or environmentalist whackos planting nails.

 

I understand the nail thing well. I've been lucky enough to not pick one up yet on the trail. My only flat thus far was a ripped valve stem on the front from running too low of pressure without a rim lock. That happened within the first few months of KLX ownership.

 

"on the UHD tubes, they are indeed better than standard tubes"

I was reading about another guy who said his group was experiencing problems with UHDs as they don't really expand until they hit about 15psi so they were encountering chaffing/bead problems when running at lower pressures. So for me this is another reason to say "screw it with conventional tubes" and go to Tubliss.


re: Stan's sealant. I've never used Slime/sealants. Looks like Stan's is pricey. How much $ do you use on each tire?

 

I've had great interest in this system recently...I'd like to know, how often do you replace parts or the entire tubeliss system? Do you run it until you have an issue or do you have to replace it every xxxxx of miles?

 

In the Nutech FAQ they claim it can last 10 times longer than tubes. If true then I don't see the expense as a disposable thing but more of a part I can keep as I cycle through bikes.