Engine sound
#1
Engine sound
Hi. I buy a KLX250S 2009(injector) and I want to ask, if it is a normal sound of this engine on this URL?
Before kawasaki aj had CRF250L and kawasaki engine is more louder and aj donīt know if it is OK. Thanks
#3
I checked and reset tensioner last weekend and tensioner looks good, but there is some little rattle at 4000-6000rpm(not this rpm in video), bud other sound?
#4
Pull the tensioner again, look at the bottom opposite the teeth on the rack. You will see a polished section. Now look at the teeth, there is a wear pattern over three to five teeth, where the plunger gets pushed back and slides back out. the tooth furthest from the tip might show some kind of a shiny edge - that is where the tooth is rounded off, the ratchet is also rounded a bit due to it being pushed back over the teeth then going back out. If you see that pattern and the polished section your tensioner has officially quit working. It may look good, but it isn't.
You need a new tensioner. You can go with a stock one for around $75 or you can go to a manual one for $43.20. One may work for a while and go bad again due to the dynamic wear of the chain and the incremental adjuster steps or the other that will work virtually for ever with small adjustments whenever light ticking is heard (10,000 miles or so from my experience).
Should you want to go with a manual tensioner, PM me. I make them. Even have on on my KLX250. Many here have them on their bikes.
You need a new tensioner. You can go with a stock one for around $75 or you can go to a manual one for $43.20. One may work for a while and go bad again due to the dynamic wear of the chain and the incremental adjuster steps or the other that will work virtually for ever with small adjustments whenever light ticking is heard (10,000 miles or so from my experience).
Should you want to go with a manual tensioner, PM me. I make them. Even have on on my KLX250. Many here have them on their bikes.
#5
Pull the tensioner again, look at the bottom opposite the teeth on the rack. You will see a polished section. Now look at the teeth, there is a wear pattern over three to five teeth, where the plunger gets pushed back and slides back out. the tooth furthest from the tip might show some kind of a shiny edge - that is where the tooth is rounded off, the ratchet is also rounded a bit due to it being pushed back over the teeth then going back out. If you see that pattern and the polished section your tensioner has officially quit working. It may look good, but it isn't.
You need a new tensioner. You can go with a stock one for around $75 or you can go to a manual one for $43.20. One may work for a while and go bad again due to the dynamic wear of the chain and the incremental adjuster steps or the other that will work virtually for ever with small adjustments whenever light ticking is heard (10,000 miles or so from my experience).
Should you want to go with a manual tensioner, PM me. I make them. Even have on on my KLX250. Many here have them on their bikes.
You need a new tensioner. You can go with a stock one for around $75 or you can go to a manual one for $43.20. One may work for a while and go bad again due to the dynamic wear of the chain and the incremental adjuster steps or the other that will work virtually for ever with small adjustments whenever light ticking is heard (10,000 miles or so from my experience).
Should you want to go with a manual tensioner, PM me. I make them. Even have on on my KLX250. Many here have them on their bikes.
#6
Rob's a good guy. I didn't think he had one of the KLX model, he's primarily supplying VTR1000F Firestorm parts. I wish he would consider carrying the KLX, WR, and CRF tensioners, it saves riders a bit of money and VAT issues, along with faster delivery. I'm glad to hear you worked with him.
If you have any questions or comments please post them or PM/email me directly, I am glad to help. One caution for sure (besides avoid burning yourself on a hot exhaust) is to say do not over tighten a manual tensioner. It is better to run slightly loose than too tight. The instructions are fairly complete, read and follow closely and you should be good to go.
If you have any questions or comments please post them or PM/email me directly, I am glad to help. One caution for sure (besides avoid burning yourself on a hot exhaust) is to say do not over tighten a manual tensioner. It is better to run slightly loose than too tight. The instructions are fairly complete, read and follow closely and you should be good to go.
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03-04-2012 08:33 AM