engine oil
#22
RE: Excellent choice Kona
I just changed the oil at 2000 miles with Mobil Drive Clean 5000 mile non synthetic. According to the bottle it met the KLX specs and after a spin around the yard (few laps ~3/4 mile) ranging from 1st to 4th gear it seems to shift smoother and engaged nicely, no slippage either as I wheelied over a narrow drainage ditch. I didn't use the clutch, just rocked back and gave it some throttle in first. I'll probably change it again around 600 miles and look for specifically motorcycle oil. I've always used the Mobil line in my 85 honda big red, 87 yamaha warrior, and vehicles. The wheelers ran fine with it as well and I can't imagine their clutches being that much different from the KLX (aside from the big red which was an auto clutch).
#23
RE: Excellent choice Kona
ORIGINAL: motoguy128
No each grade of Mobil 1 is the same. Yes, the 10w30, 10W40 and any viscocity where on the label it says "energy conserving" is bad. It has firction modfiers that can cause hte clutch to slip.
No each grade of Mobil 1 is the same. Yes, the 10w30, 10W40 and any viscocity where on the label it says "energy conserving" is bad. It has firction modfiers that can cause hte clutch to slip.
#24
RE: Excellent choice Kona
This topic has generated some good discussion. I thought that I was the only one unsure about the whole oil issue. I also read(didn't think to copy the link)that some automobile oils will say "motorcycle compatible", and they really aren't..maybe for a bike with a dry clutch, or separate transmission..but they don't state that on the bottle. My opionion is too find something that works well, and then stick with it. This is probably almost as important as the kind of oil you use.
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