I got some insight into why my bike might be ticking. It might not be the cam chain tensioner. The loud ticking started shortly or the same time I changed oil and went to synthetic. The weight is 20/50 which means when the bike is cold its 50 and when its warmed up its 20. Thicker oil has a tendency to cause the lifters to load up and run a little delayed, which could be causing some of the noise. I am going to call the bike shop right now and see if they have any advice as to what I should do. What oil is everyone using here. Up until 100 miles ago I was running the Kawichem oil that the bike shop recommended. But I switched to the Amsoil 20/50 full synthetic. In fact I am going to call right now,

Well I called the shop and they said in all their bikes and in the books that come with the bikes nowhere does it mention full synthetic. They did say that there are several synthetic blends out there that are ok, but I got to thinking about it, and how long have bikes been running on good old plain oil. I am starting to believe that just changing it more often is better than anything you could use. The mechanic also said that all 4 stroke bikes have a ticking when they first start up, even the best build race bikes. He said to be patient and wait for the cam chain tensioner to pick up the slack. I think I'm going to switch back to the oil I was running from the start. I am starting to believe that oil viscosity has a lot more to do with how an engine runs that I previously thought. Case in point I have a Cub Cadet 22 hp lawn mower that started missing and making noise on the 2nd year we had it up here at work, I got a hold of the dealer (same dealer as the bike shop) and they said they received a bulletin that 10-40 weight was being replaced with 10-30 because it was too thick for the lifters causing the valves to be out of wack causing problems. Well I switched to the 10-30 and instantly the problem was gone. I don't really know if all of what I wrote is legit or believable, but it is food for thought.

 

20-50 sounds really think for this motor, dont they reccommend 10-40? 20-40 is really thick.... im using regular exl 10-40.... and as u know i have my own problems.....

 

[sm=interesting.gif] good luck let us know what happens when u switch it back.

 

I'm just using 10W40 as recommended in the manual from a quality brand. There's nothing wrong with synthetic, in fact the manual just says to hold off switching until you around 1000 miles or so so that the synthetic doesn't impede break-in. If you do use synthetic, be sure and get a wet-clutch motorcycle formulation. Synthetics designed for cars can actually be too slick.

Sounds like that was your problem, though, since it went away after you changed it. Glad you figured it out. And as I mentioned in your original thread, I wouldn't mess with the cam chain tensioner to manually take up slack - just let it do its job. Sounds like your mechanic agrees.

 

No I made sure it was for motorcycles only. And I haven't changed back yet, but I will let you guys know what happens and if it gets better.

 

I'm useing Silkolene Semi synthetic 10/40 w 4 Stroke Motor cycle oil and it seems to be doing good .... I used Golden Spectra in my drag bike that was some good oil but I changed it about every 10 runs.... I really don't think your hearing a cam chain sound it does not make a ticking sound . It makes a very bad and loud rapping noise I have heard plenty of them . I have rode 2 of these bikes and under hard acelleration the motor makes a deep rappy sound did it since day one. And I hear a light ticking sound but nothing real loud. I think the compression release on the end of the cam might make some noise but I'm not sure. I don't use 20/50 in anything it is so thick, unless I lived where its over 100 degrees all the time.

 

Yea our average temp for the year is 50 and it rarely gets above 90 here in the summer, and maybe 20 for a couple of weeks in the winter. I'm heading back to the Kawichem oil.

 

My bad - I see now you were talking about your lawn mower, I thought you'd resolved the issue on your KLX.

 

While I suppose it's Possible I doubt seriously it's the oil your running. The one thing I seem to see about these ticking noise posts is that most people who have this happen have several thousand miles on their bikes and they have been modified. Nobody with Low miles or stock bikes seem to be having this issue.

While 10w40 is the prefered oil for the klx250 the owners manual does say you can use 20w50 too. In fact I just changed my oil from 20w50 back to a 10w40 weight and had no issues with 20w50 at all. Also I'm Sure Synthetic oil isnt the problem. I have run Amsoil 20w50 in my harley for 2 years with No bad effects. this Includes both the motor and trans/clutch area.

I also just went to Amsoil 10w40 this weekend on my Klx250 with only 300 miles on it. I was going to wait untill 600 miles but said screw it. Amsoil is Good Oil, One of the best in the world if not thee best. While I understand what you mechanic said about lifters and such I strongly believe that this ticking issue people are reporting is not related to the oil or weight you use. This of course is just my opinion.



LV

 

Hmmm now you got me thinking, I wonder if I should wait for the chain tensioner, because if I go back to the Kawi oil and the problem goes away I won't really know which one was the fix. I should learn to be more patient. Thanks man later. Oh did you read my Jesus post?