EFM Auto Clutch
#12
Without the clutch how does the KLX have enough power to pop the front wheel over undercut ledges and rocks? I ride trails cut by guys with rock buggies and regulate the speed in tech sections with the clutch and the engine stays steady at about 3/4 throttle. I would like to try one of these auto clutches just to see if I could adjust to it.
#13
Without the clutch how does the KLX have enough power to pop the front wheel over undercut ledges and rocks? I ride trails cut by guys with rock buggies and regulate the speed in tech sections with the clutch and the engine stays steady at about 3/4 throttle. I would like to try one of these auto clutches just to see if I could adjust to it.
#15
Thanks for posting this! I have a Rekluse (zStart Pro) on my Husky and am a BIG fan - have been debating the EFM for the KLX but have unanswered questions that make me reluctant to take a chance given how expensive the EFM is.
So, it's basically $700 plus you need to supply your current clutch internals for them to modify. This is where my biggest questions are, and hopefully you can help. If I were to buy the necessary internals for EFM to modify (so I can carry on using my bike while they do the modification and post the bits back to me), what would I need? Basket? Drive plates? Fibres? Cover?
I have pretty much stopped taking my KLX offroad now that I have the Husky... I use the KLX as my daily commuter pretty much with the occasional offroad ride. I know there are BIG advantages to the auto-clutch offroad, but did you notice any advantage to having it on the black-top?
It's taken me a while to get used to the Rekluse on the Husky too. I have fitted a LHRB so it's very funny when I accidentally reach for the clutch and instead end up slowing the bike down.
To me, a LHRB is one of the biggest pluses of having an auto-clutch, especially when you are negotiating steep downhills and tight right turns in single tracks where you need to put your leg out for balance (so can't use the rear brake). My Husky has the Rekluse LHRB (Brembo) but it seems Rekluse use a converted mountain bike master cylinder which can't generate enough pressure to lock the rear wheel. If you can find a good condition master cylinder/lever from a road bike (with a hydraulic clutch) I would advise you go that route - but be sure to check that you can use DOT5 brake fluid with it as a lot of hydraulic clutches only use mineral oil, so the rubbers get messed up if you use DOT5 in them. Also, I got pretty hung up on getting one of the "dual actuated" LHRB setups so I had the option to use the foot brake or the hand lever, but to be honest you only need the hand lever if it's strong enough to lock the rear wheel. It's pretty easy to break the habit of using the foot brake - easier than breaking the habit of using the clutch anyway
So, it's basically $700 plus you need to supply your current clutch internals for them to modify. This is where my biggest questions are, and hopefully you can help. If I were to buy the necessary internals for EFM to modify (so I can carry on using my bike while they do the modification and post the bits back to me), what would I need? Basket? Drive plates? Fibres? Cover?
It's taken me a while to get used to the Rekluse on the Husky too. I have fitted a LHRB so it's very funny when I accidentally reach for the clutch and instead end up slowing the bike down.
To me, a LHRB is one of the biggest pluses of having an auto-clutch, especially when you are negotiating steep downhills and tight right turns in single tracks where you need to put your leg out for balance (so can't use the rear brake). My Husky has the Rekluse LHRB (Brembo) but it seems Rekluse use a converted mountain bike master cylinder which can't generate enough pressure to lock the rear wheel. If you can find a good condition master cylinder/lever from a road bike (with a hydraulic clutch) I would advise you go that route - but be sure to check that you can use DOT5 brake fluid with it as a lot of hydraulic clutches only use mineral oil, so the rubbers get messed up if you use DOT5 in them. Also, I got pretty hung up on getting one of the "dual actuated" LHRB setups so I had the option to use the foot brake or the hand lever, but to be honest you only need the hand lever if it's strong enough to lock the rear wheel. It's pretty easy to break the habit of using the foot brake - easier than breaking the habit of using the clutch anyway
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