DynoJet Results
#11
RE: DynoJet Results
Yep the needles are nothing alike. Visually comparing them its surprising they even go on the same bike they are so different. The needle is where you spend most time riding & is the magic in the kit.
#12
RE: DynoJet Results
That's weird, I using a 132 keihn main at sea level, no air box lid, a 340 piston, muzzy full exhaust and I'm a tiny bit rich. My pilot jet is a 42 thou.
Any chance they put the wrong jets in your kit.
Any chance they put the wrong jets in your kit.
#13
RE: DynoJet Results
ORIGINAL: Finger Mullet
That's weird, I using a 132 keihn main at sea level, no air box lid, a 340 piston, muzzy full exhaust and I'm a tiny bit rich. My pilot jet is a 42 thou.
Any chance they put the wrong jets in your kit.
That's weird, I using a 132 keihn main at sea level, no air box lid, a 340 piston, muzzy full exhaust and I'm a tiny bit rich. My pilot jet is a 42 thou.
Any chance they put the wrong jets in your kit.
BTW, DJ says move the needle clipto pos. 3 and use a 128 for a baseline at sea level if you are using an aftermarket exhaust.
#14
RE: DynoJet Results
Now I really have no idea why you are lean
Only thing I can think of is needle settings with washers on the wrong side of the clip.......but you sound like you know what your doing. I'm at a loss perhaps someone will chime in or call dynojet direct....sorry about the lack of help.
Only thing I can think of is needle settings with washers on the wrong side of the clip.......but you sound like you know what your doing. I'm at a loss perhaps someone will chime in or call dynojet direct....sorry about the lack of help.
#15
RE: DynoJet Results
No prob FM.
Like I said, it is within the range DJ suggests (if the big snorkle acts a little like a KLX300 withno lid on the airbox and drilling through the first baffle acts a little like a KLX300 with no end cap) for my altitude.
It runs in every way better than stock and does nothing funny. I didn't have a lot of seat time on this bike before I started tinkering, plus I'm used to much more HP motorcycles. I started with a 128 and going to a 132 was better. It just surprized me tha the plug was white because it didn't "act" lean.
I'm probably going to do a plug check with the stock snorkle to see what happens before I do anything else.
Again, the bike is better andhas no weird performance symptoms. Maybeany "power deficit" I might feelis because it's just a 250cc single.
Like I said, it is within the range DJ suggests (if the big snorkle acts a little like a KLX300 withno lid on the airbox and drilling through the first baffle acts a little like a KLX300 with no end cap) for my altitude.
It runs in every way better than stock and does nothing funny. I didn't have a lot of seat time on this bike before I started tinkering, plus I'm used to much more HP motorcycles. I started with a 128 and going to a 132 was better. It just surprized me tha the plug was white because it didn't "act" lean.
I'm probably going to do a plug check with the stock snorkle to see what happens before I do anything else.
Again, the bike is better andhas no weird performance symptoms. Maybeany "power deficit" I might feelis because it's just a 250cc single.
#16
RE: DynoJet Results
ORIGINAL: sam83
BTW, DJ says move the needle clip to pos. 3 and use a 128 for a baseline at sea level if you are using an aftermarket exhaust.
BTW, DJ says move the needle clip to pos. 3 and use a 128 for a baseline at sea level if you are using an aftermarket exhaust.
Maybe try riding it a bit more and check the plug? It is pretty mysterious why you would be lean.
This is way way out there but where did you get your DJ kit from? I read on the DJ website some time ago that there was a problem with counterfeit kits out on the market, which is why I was skeptical of buying from ebay, but it all worked out.
I also though I read somewhere around here about damaged floats causing disturbances? Just pitching ideas.
#17
RE: DynoJet Results
again, if I could quote this whole thread I would and say "I rest my case".
When I modded my carb I followed step-by-step instructions that were provided on this site, as well as the recommended sizes of keihin jets. I ordered the N1TC needle, which is what your beloved KTM rider did as well. Maybe you don't know, but that is what the doctor orders for the KLX carb. I just hate it when people make something harder than it should be. Modding this carb w/out replacing it is easy, look at what others are running at the same altitude and order those two sizes of main jets and get the adjustable needle and call it a day. Order some kit not even made for your bike, with jets that next to no one on this site knows anything about is disaster in the works.
The last time I checked, the oem keihin jets from ronayers.com were like $6 or so. The kit which includes needless parts like drill bits that even my grandma has lying around is a waste of money imo.
Sam, I'm glad you appreciate my input, I've been there and know what it's like to have your bike dismantled. But, when I did it and put the carb back in, all I had to do afterwards was adjust the N1TC one notch and it was perfect. I used keihin jets and had tons of info. to refer to on here. Dynojet is just a name that you pay for along with the "cool" little transparent case with those nifty little compartments housing the spare parts you pay $60 for that you'll never use. Maybe you've learned a lesson?[:@]
When all else fails, look to what Nobrakes did to his KLX. I'll leave the research up to you on that one.
When I modded my carb I followed step-by-step instructions that were provided on this site, as well as the recommended sizes of keihin jets. I ordered the N1TC needle, which is what your beloved KTM rider did as well. Maybe you don't know, but that is what the doctor orders for the KLX carb. I just hate it when people make something harder than it should be. Modding this carb w/out replacing it is easy, look at what others are running at the same altitude and order those two sizes of main jets and get the adjustable needle and call it a day. Order some kit not even made for your bike, with jets that next to no one on this site knows anything about is disaster in the works.
The last time I checked, the oem keihin jets from ronayers.com were like $6 or so. The kit which includes needless parts like drill bits that even my grandma has lying around is a waste of money imo.
Sam, I'm glad you appreciate my input, I've been there and know what it's like to have your bike dismantled. But, when I did it and put the carb back in, all I had to do afterwards was adjust the N1TC one notch and it was perfect. I used keihin jets and had tons of info. to refer to on here. Dynojet is just a name that you pay for along with the "cool" little transparent case with those nifty little compartments housing the spare parts you pay $60 for that you'll never use. Maybe you've learned a lesson?[:@]
When all else fails, look to what Nobrakes did to his KLX. I'll leave the research up to you on that one.
#18
RE: DynoJet Results
Even with up to a 130 Keihin main jet and a lowly stock KLX300 exhaust I was extremely lean when I took off the airbox lid. Right around 3/4 throttle it would just about die it was sputtering so bad. I put the lid back on and it runs great, the low end doesn't rev quite as fast as with no lid but the top end is smooth.
#19
RE: DynoJet Results
ORIGINAL: bryantjt
Even with up to a 130 Keihin main jet and a lowly stock KLX300 exhaust I was extremely lean when I took off the airbox lid. Right around 3/4 throttle it would just about die it was sputtering so bad. I put the lid back on and it runs great, the low end doesn't rev quite as fast as with no lid but the top end is smooth.
Even with up to a 130 Keihin main jet and a lowly stock KLX300 exhaust I was extremely lean when I took off the airbox lid. Right around 3/4 throttle it would just about die it was sputtering so bad. I put the lid back on and it runs great, the low end doesn't rev quite as fast as with no lid but the top end is smooth.
Not sure what the deal iswith the airbox lid being off, but I know my Yoshimura pumpercomes configured in three different ways.1. BMC filter directly mounted to the carb, totally bypassing the airbox andflexduct. 2.A straight funnel for racing. 3.Standard airbox adapter. Of the three options, theone configured for the standard airbox requires the richestjetting. Ifoundthat kind of interesting. They require you to cut a large holewith rounded couners in the airbox lid.the size of the holeis only slightly smaller than if you were to remove the entire lid.
When itcomes right down to itI don't think it provides a better fuel/air volumebecause you get more power from the funnel and directlymounted filter. I spend so much time on pavement that I might gowith theBMC filter next season. You alsoget the added benefit of a"pfft..pfft...pfft" noise for inductionrather than the deep, far carrying sound of the airbox hole.
#20
RE: DynoJet Results
Okay iowa, no I've learned no lesson yet other than my bike runs better than ever and the only discernable indicator that I may have a lean condition is the plug.
I've learned the DJ takes my calls and included all the other stuff I needed thatmy grandmother already had in her sewing kit. Personally, I liked that 'cause grandma gets cranky when I mess with her stuff.
Maybe, just maybe, my current setup is pretty darn good and no better than I could achieve with keihin jets andN1TC needle.
At this point - after 2 attempts - I do not feel that I've invested time or money horribly.
I already knew there was much more data on keihin jets andthe N1TC needle here, but maybe that's just due to some "lemming effect". And while there may be information here from butt dynos, I think if I wanted to really learn something, I'd have to have real performance data on the same bike withboth DJ andkeihin.
So, to be helpful, tell me what I would need with the keihin jets andN1TC needle, given everything else being the exact same as it is now on my bike.
Maybe I'll try it.[/align]