Ya, as above ^, ignore "drilling the slider" since it's not called for with your DJ kit. However, a weaker spring would result in the same thing: faster slider response.

 

when you read references to a 'slider' they are referring to the black plastic slide that holds the long 'needle' jet. The slider has the rubber diaphragm at the top. The slider goes up and down in relation to the throttle plate opening and the amount of air passing through the carburetor.

Drilling the starter enrichment jet is not conveyed in the Dynojet instructions. The enrichment jet is a brass orifice that is pressed into the carb body. It is seen when the float bowl is removed and carb is upside down. This 'starter jet enrichment orifice' flows fuel whenever the choke **** is pulled out. It allows a bit more fuel to flow into the intake tract to aid in cold starting. Many drill this orifice to .018" (stock is .017") to aid in the cold starting of the klx250.

 

If your bike starts with no issues after rejet, no need to drill the enrichment jet. Seems some bikes need it and some do not.

 

I did replace the spring with the firmer one but didn't enlarge the enrichment hole. Which in hind sight I should have. I fired it up cold today with the choke pulled and it wouldn't start without a little throttle. But once warmed up and running the idle was perfect.

I have the K&N filter and KDX snorkel. I didn't remove any smog stuff but would have liked to if I knew how. I was really focused only on the carb.

My exhaust leak is gone, so that's good, but I am still getting a little popping while downshifting. It's not loud, but its definitely popping. I will try and adjust the fuel screw a 1/4 at time and see what effect it has. I'm in no rush, I can do an adjustment everyday until I get it dialed in. I have yet to really look at how to get to the screw. I've seen a special screw driver to adjust it. Is that necessary or can I use a small eye glass screw driver?

 

You will get some popping, you may not be able to get rid of it altogether.

 

If i remember correctly it is a weaker spring in the DJ kit allowing the slide to move faster. Yes you can use a small scew Driver but the Kouba tool is what you want for the fuel mixture screw.
"T"-Handle FuelscrewAir/Fuelscrews

 

On the enrichment screw, is going counter clockwise leaner and clockwise richer? Would I start by going 1/4 richer?

 

Good going on fixing the exhaust leak. The T-handle fuel screw is really the way to go. You can buy or make little screwdrivers to get up there, but the T-handle is a pleasure to use and you can mark it with a sharpie to have reference points.

Adjusting the fuel screw to minimize popping is not the 'right' way to tune it. You'll likely end up on the rich side on the idle circuit. That could help it start a little easier, but it won't be as snappy at low rpms, off the line, etc.

 

It is a fuel screw, so counter clockwise is going richer. Do not go more then 4 full turns out, it may become too loose and fall out during a ride.

 

This forum is great! Just finished my DJ kit also. What a plumbing nightmare. My 2010 is stock so I did the stage 1. Turned on the petcock, pulled the choke. Hit the starter and bam. Started instantly. After 10 seconds, pushed in the choke and it settled into a nice idle with full throttle response. I'm stoked. Thanks guys.