DynoJet questions

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 02-29-2012, 05:07 PM
IDRIDR's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: SW Idaho
Posts: 4,507
Default

Originally Posted by whyzee
  • Next remove the single phillips screw that holds the throttle cable bracket to the right side of the carburetor. This will allow both cables to disconnect from the carb without much hassle.
  • Loosen the 3 hoseclamps that connect the carb AND airbox boot to the intake plenum and airbox respectively.
I recommend a little switch of order here, but that's just me. It can be done either way.

Remove phillips screw
loosen hose clamps
twist carb a little so that the cables disconnect with less hassle.
 
  #12  
Old 02-29-2012, 08:32 PM
Brieninsac's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,401
Default

Based on the information I've found here and elsewhere I'm going to give a go myself. I'm pretty comfortable with doing the rejetting itself, my concern was really with the removal of the carb. But like System6 said, it's a good way to learn more about your bike in the confines of my garage then on the side of the road.

I'll have my laptop in the garage while I do it so I can pull up resources and pics if needed.
 
  #13  
Old 03-01-2012, 03:27 AM
Kenny M.'s Avatar
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Bay Area, Ca.
Posts: 9
Default

This is great info. I just got my dynojet box from the UPS guy. Carbs on my airheads used to be easy. Every thing after that was FI. Thanks.
 
  #14  
Old 03-01-2012, 01:47 PM
Ranger Ron's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sonoran Desert, Arizona
Posts: 262
Default

Originally Posted by whyzee
  • Remove the seat (2ea. 8mm bolts)
  • Remove the side cover/number plates (2 more 8mm bolts per side).
  • Next is the radiator plastics (3ea. 8mm bolts) both sides.
  • Remove the fuel tank along with the on/off/reserve fuel shutoff after disconnecting the proper fuel line clamps (5ea. 8mm bolts total).
Respectfully, a minor correction: They are actually 6mm with 8mm heads.

Ron
 
  #15  
Old 03-01-2012, 02:44 PM
Brieninsac's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,401
Default

Originally Posted by whyzee
Next is the radiator plastics (3ea. 8mm bolts) both sides.
Are those the black fins in front of the radiator?
 
  #16  
Old 03-01-2012, 04:07 PM
whyzee's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 175
Default

Originally Posted by Brieninsac
Are those the black fins in front of the radiator?
No, They are the red plastics on each side of the tank. The ones that your knees touch when sitting. They have stickers that say Kawasaki on them.

@Ranger Ron: Of course they are 6mm bolts with 8mm heads. Most people feel that the wrench/socket size is more helpful when performing a disassembly than the actual diameter of the bolt. Diameters are helpful upon reassembly when specific torque values are unknown.

The actual diameter of the bolts in the procedure described is not material to the removal of the carb. Nor is the loosening of the hose clamps in order to tilt the carb for removal of the throttle cables.

Brien, If you remove the phillips head screw on the right side of the carb that retains the bracket anchoring the two throttle cables, tilting of the carb is a non issue.

Whyzee< standing by to read IDRIDER's and Ranger Ron's Carburetor removal procedure.
 
  #17  
Old 03-01-2012, 04:11 PM
Brieninsac's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,401
Default

Ok, that helps! So it sounds like I remove the plastics, tank and loosen the air box. I'll follow the removal recommendations on the throttle bracket.
 
  #18  
Old 03-01-2012, 04:41 PM
ol'klx-er's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: kootenay country BC Canada
Posts: 1,800
Default

Note: What looks like Philips screw heads on the KLX are in fact a JIS standard heads. Philips screwdrivers tend to strip JIS heads. A Philips screwdriver with the tip filed down will lessen the tendency to strip JIS heads.
 
  #19  
Old 03-01-2012, 04:44 PM
whyzee's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 175
Default

You will get it. This was just a simple guide I wrote for you quickly to give you an idea that removing the carb for your first time on the klx250s is much easier than brain surgery on your first attempt

After you get your carburetor out you will have your own method and sequence order.

Just hoping what I have written helps you out
 
  #20  
Old 03-01-2012, 05:15 PM
IDRIDR's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: SW Idaho
Posts: 4,507
Default

Originally Posted by whyzee
Nor is the loosening of the hose clamps in order to tilt the carb for removal of the throttle cables.

Brien, If you remove the phillips head screw on the right side of the carb that retains the bracket anchoring the two throttle cables, tilting of the carb is a non issue.

Whyzee< standing by to read IDRIDER's and Ranger Ron's Carburetor removal procedure.
Necessary: agree that no it isn't. But for me and my bike, it is easier to tilt the carb a tad to remove the cable end. Maybe that's because I have bar risers and the cables have a little less slack than without risers? I dunno, just reporting what works for me...

YRMV
 


Quick Reply: DynoJet questions



All times are GMT. The time now is 12:21 AM.