I can do that.

I wasn't happy with the DJ parts, and I see no reason to use them when the OEM stuff is proven to work.

 

Kind of my point, why screw with what has been proven since 2007. You don't see a whole lot here questioning issues with the KLX300 parts from Kawasaki. It's darn near automatic.

I will say we, my brother and I, added a Dial-A-Jet to fill in lean spots that happen with hard brass. I'll be doing the same with a Mikuni 36-68 to take care of any leanness on steady throttle as well as 1/2-full on.

But to each their own.

 

I agree. There are people on here spending a ridiculous amount of time and money trying to make the DJ stuff work, without a great deal of success.

 

That's their choice to make. KLXSTER has contributed that time and money for the benefit of the community.

I sincerely doubt he did it prove that DJ parts are better than OEM or anything. He did it for himself and shared the results.

That's something that should be commended, not looked down on.

 

Merely suggesting that the evidence is there that supports what 678 said.

I'm not sure why you think I'm looking down on anybody.

 

ah, misunderstood the tone of the message.

There certainly might be easier set ups that just work. I don't mind learning and troubleshooting stuff though, personally.

 

It is commendable. The way it sounds the Dyno Jet kind of forces doing it though. So I guess if you have Dyno Jet and are fighting with it, KLXter is fighting the battle on that front too. It will help with the Dyno Jet kit stuff, but perhaps there is a better solution.

Key thing is the comparison. It would help to include the known proven fix since roughly 2007:

• 16009-1912 Kawi Needle-Jet, N1TC
• 92037-1401 Kawi Clamp, Jet Needle
• 92143-1667 Kawi Collar Needle clip slot 2 down from the top
• 92063-1069 Kawi Main Jet #125 or 92063-1074 Kawi Main Jet #128
• 92064-1108 pilot jet #40 Air screw at 2 turns out to start
• drill the slide vent to 7/64ths

That, in industrial terms, would be the benchmark for comparisons. It may be the solution too.

Maybe someone who's done the "cheap mods" and hasn't had success might give some input, but I'm not one.

I will say measuring the needles makes sense, but I'd do it comparing at points like Mikuni does. That allows comparison to the company with the best available brass and dimensional specifications on its brass. It would possibly allow substitution of Mikuni needles in the Kiehin. Again, the benchmark - Mikuni's measurement points.

I didn't "reinvent the wheel" for jetting. Someone did the groundwork back in 2007 for the KLX250 and with everything I saw, I ran with it. I did the Dial-A-Jet because I've used it before and found it to work as the company claims. No dyno, just riding. No money to spend on it. Some runoffs against other bikes lent some credence to it. Someone else "fought the battle", I took advantage of their "win".

After all the research I did before I dug into my carburetor I went with the proven mod plus added a Dial-A-Jet to fill in any leanness and have no issues or needs to do any more work. Good clean acceleration and 50 mpg with stupid low gearing (13/47). Pulls decently from around 4000 and will over rev fairly easily when called upon to do so. Fact is on a big bore 650 (678cc) with a full exhaust only adding the Dial-A-Jet for jetting change, the mpg went from stock at 50 mpg to a rather surprising 60 mpg.

If one really wants to learn, don't ask - DO. Read the manuals to know what and why. I did it back when jetting a flat tracker and motocrosser, then when fitting a 24 Mikuni intended for a small two stroke enduro to my 250 trials bike. I've had enough starting from scratch when not needed. From both education and industrial experience I now research heavily first, then dive in. I don't mind being cutting edge, I just don't want to be bleeding edge (to borrow from another industrial saying)... especially when it costs more money.

I considered going "bleeding edge" with a VM34 Mikuni on the bike, which has no data to work with, just some generalities that might give some guidance from some other bikes, but that thought ended with the appearance of a 36-68 in the mail. Now it is wading through the various information people have out there. When I get what works I will definitely put the information in a thread with my general atmospheric conditions - where I live and what the climate is like there. After all, what works at sea level and 60°F degrees isn't the same as 5000 feet and 90°F.

 

To be honest, I don't appreciate having to "reinvent the wheel" in order to get the 2152 kit to fuel my bike for maximum output. They should have included components for a "Stage III" for use with a performance exhaust and no lid.. As it is, I'm creating one for them..

 

Have you actually been in touch with Dyno Jet and gotten some cooperation? You should, considering what you post here. It's like my cam chain tensioner thing, you have information and could have parts of value. If they don't see it that way you should "take your show on the road", setting up your own kit. There are a heck of a lot of KLX250s around the world - as I've learned.

Fact is if you could do all this with Kiehin parts ( and even Mikuni if their needles would work) you could build a proven kit for the bike and sell it as such. It seems the Dyno Jet set up is a bit vague, considering so many people find issues with it. It would be interesting if you kitted up parts with better information. Hard part is the elevation information to get one that works in hot low Texas, cooler higher Colorado, middling Ohio, etc. I know there would be some overlap, but it would be great if a guy could get one proven pilot, one needle, and two/three mains. It may be the air box lid will mainly play with that main jet at max flow, all else working with or without, I don't know. Time is the factor and you clearly are willing to put in the time.

With what you're doing and able to do, it would be interesting if you did the leaner jetting and a Dial-A-Jet. I don't have the stuff to do it. Seems some places like Dick's Racing does carbs with kits and all. This would be really interesting. A new rider wants to get better performance you have the kit. Get a dealer that will give you a break on jetting parts due to quantity done. I do that with gaskets, I spend around $2000/year on gaskets, the dealer gives me a percentage break. Same could be done with a decent proven jet kit that works reasonably well (aka not perfection, but darn close within what hard brass can allow). Personally that would be what I'd look for - and did. No complaints about the KLX300 stuff, but too many on DJ pretty much made the choice. Is it best? Maybe not, you could prove it yes or no.

Just a thought.

 

I both admire what you've done and am confused by it. As others have noted there are more plug and play options. I took the well traveled road first with the stock carb, and then with the TM36-68. In both cases it was easy and fast.

I am not really sure why anyone would take the Dynojet route. If you're paying for those dyno runs you could have easily bought a 351 kit and a TM36-68.

On the other hand what you've done is pretty awesome. You've assembled a lot of empirical data in the form of runs and measurements. Watching it has been interesting. It's real scientific method. The analysis seems like it's really sound too.

These forums are pretty amazing because people like you take the time to share their data. It's really cool, thanks. And, like I said, you really are the worlds foremost expert on Dynojet for the KLX250s.