Dynojet Help
#11
04-09-2006, 06:50 PM
RE: Dynojet Help
ORIGINAL: a16tony
128/stock needle = 125/KLX300 needle.
128/stock needle = 125/KLX300 needle.
#12
04-09-2006, 07:09 PM
RE: Dynojet Help
ORIGINAL: incabiker
This is the stock needle with 2 washers under it correct?? You think the width of the 2 washers that came with the dyno jet kit should work ok? Or do you think the dyno jet needle would be like the stock one if the e-clip was in slot #1?
ORIGINAL: a16tony
128/stock needle = 125/KLX300 needle.
128/stock needle = 125/KLX300 needle.
2.You think the width of the 2 washers that came with the dyno jet kit should work ok? ...yes
3.do you think the dyno jet needle would be like the stock one if the e-clip was in slot #1?... absolutly not. I think that would give you a lean mid-range(big flat spot).The two needle are different profiles. KLX=power, stock=economy IMO.
#13
04-09-2006, 07:31 PM
RE: Dynojet Help
Hello,
I just got done pulling the slide and I was comparing the needles side by side. The outcome, the stock needle with 2 washers on top of it is exactly the same length as the Dyno jet needle with the e-clip in slot number one from base, the only thing thats different is the dyno needle is tapered more aggressivley. So this means that it should still be more rich then the Stock needle with 2 washers under it right. Since they are both the exact same length and sit in the carb the exact same distance. The only think is that the diameter on the bottom of the dyno is less, so this = more gas right, rather then the lean condition you had explained above in #3.. I originally had the e-clip in the 3rd slot down, which made it shorter then the stock with 2 washers, which was much richer. Now its exactly even with the stock and 2 washers with eclip in slot number one from base??
I just got done pulling the slide and I was comparing the needles side by side. The outcome, the stock needle with 2 washers on top of it is exactly the same length as the Dyno jet needle with the e-clip in slot number one from base, the only thing thats different is the dyno needle is tapered more aggressivley. So this means that it should still be more rich then the Stock needle with 2 washers under it right. Since they are both the exact same length and sit in the carb the exact same distance. The only think is that the diameter on the bottom of the dyno is less, so this = more gas right, rather then the lean condition you had explained above in #3.. I originally had the e-clip in the 3rd slot down, which made it shorter then the stock with 2 washers, which was much richer. Now its exactly even with the stock and 2 washers with eclip in slot number one from base??
#14
04-09-2006, 07:40 PM
RE: Dynojet Help
ORIGINAL: incabiker
Hello,
I just got done pulling the slide and I was comparing the needles side by side. The outcome, the stock needle with 2 washers on top of it is exactly the same length as the Dyno jet needle with the e-clip in slot number one from base, the only thing thats different is the dyno needle is tapered more aggressivley. So this means that it should still be more rich then the Stock needle with 2 washers under it right. Since they are both the exact same length and sit in the carb the exact same distance. The only think is that the diameter on the bottom of the dyno is less, so this = more gas right, rather then the lean condition you had explained above in #3.. I originally had the e-clip in the 3rd slot down, which made it shorter then the stock with 2 washers, which was much richer. Now its exactly even with the stock and 2 washers with eclip in slot number one from base??
Hello,
I just got done pulling the slide and I was comparing the needles side by side. The outcome, the stock needle with 2 washers on top of it is exactly the same length as the Dyno jet needle with the e-clip in slot number one from base, the only thing thats different is the dyno needle is tapered more aggressivley. So this means that it should still be more rich then the Stock needle with 2 washers under it right. Since they are both the exact same length and sit in the carb the exact same distance. The only think is that the diameter on the bottom of the dyno is less, so this = more gas right, rather then the lean condition you had explained above in #3.. I originally had the e-clip in the 3rd slot down, which made it shorter then the stock with 2 washers, which was much richer. Now its exactly even with the stock and 2 washers with eclip in slot number one from base??
#15
04-09-2006, 07:44 PM
RE: Dynojet Help
ORIGINAL: a16tony
Well Bill, I'm glad you have the two needles to campare too. I was guessing the KLX was longer, now I know. Your analysis seems right on. When's the test ride?
Well Bill, I'm glad you have the two needles to campare too. I was guessing the KLX was longer, now I know. Your analysis seems right on. When's the test ride?
. You also don't live in a high altitude place right? Higher the altitude, more lean it has to be. I'll put the e-clip in slot #1 from base and go riding.
#16
04-09-2006, 07:47 PM
RE: Dynojet Help
ORIGINAL: incabiker
As soon as I get done putting everything back together, I'll take a picture of the needles to show you also. I'll let you know how it runs. You also don't live in a high altitude place right? Higher the altitude, more lean it has to be. I'll put the e-clip in slot #1 from base and go riding.
ORIGINAL: a16tony
Well Bill, I'm glad you have the two needles to campare too. I was guessing the KLX was longer, now I know. Your analysis seems right on. When's the test ride?
Well Bill, I'm glad you have the two needles to campare too. I was guessing the KLX was longer, now I know. Your analysis seems right on. When's the test ride?
. You also don't live in a high altitude place right? Higher the altitude, more lean it has to be. I'll put the e-clip in slot #1 from base and go riding.
#17
04-09-2006, 11:16 PM
RE: Dynojet Help
Well I just got back with the new settings and really couldn't tell much of a difference, though for some reason everything feels a little better throughout. It rips all the way through with no hesitation, bog, etc... I though it messed up at 1st because when I 1st started the bike it wouldn't respond very well at the bottom 1/4 of the throttle. I guess its because it wasn't warmed up throughly, and I just got done messing with the carb, so maybe it was filling with gasoline when I started it again, I don't know, lol. But after about a minute, it was as responsive as ever. This is a good thing because now I will be saving a little gas, not as much as tony because my needle is still more aggresive than his, but its the exact same length as his. I think this is how I will leave the bike, its good enough for me and its still very quiet. Now I need to get a 45 rear sprocket and a new chain.
Now this brings me to another subject. Who makes good chains? I would like to replace the original with an o-ring as well, but where can I get the best bang for the buck for this chain. What manufactuar should I be buying as well, who makes a pretty decent chain? Last question, I know all about the front sprocket, but where can I get the rear 45 tooth sprocket for the bike, I know someone mentioned renthal, whats the part number for renthals 45 tooth that fits our bike?
Now this brings me to another subject. Who makes good chains? I would like to replace the original with an o-ring as well, but where can I get the best bang for the buck for this chain. What manufactuar should I be buying as well, who makes a pretty decent chain? Last question, I know all about the front sprocket, but where can I get the rear 45 tooth sprocket for the bike, I know someone mentioned renthal, whats the part number for renthals 45 tooth that fits our bike?
#18
04-09-2006, 11:43 PM
RE: Dynojet Help
ORIGINAL: incabiker
Well I just got back with the new settings and really couldn't tell much of a difference, though for some reason everything feels a little better throughout. It rips all the way through with no hesitation, bog, etc... I though it messed up at 1st because when I 1st started the bike it wouldn't respond very well at the bottom 1/4 of the throttle. I guess its because it wasn't warmed up throughly, and I just got done messing with the carb, so maybe it was filling with gasoline when I started it again, I don't know, lol. But after about a minute, it was as responsive as ever. This is a good thing because now I will be saving a little gas, not as much as tony because my needle is still more aggresive than his, but its the exact same length as his. I think this is how I will leave the bike, its good enough for me and its still very quiet. Now I need to get a 45 rear sprocket and a new chain.
Now this brings me to another subject. Who makes good chains? I would like to replace the original with an o-ring as well, but where can I get the best bang for the buck for this chain. What manufactuar should I be buying as well, who makes a pretty decent chain? Last question, I know all about the front sprocket, but where can I get the rear 45 tooth sprocket for the bike, I know someone mentioned renthal, whats the part number for renthals 45 tooth that fits our bike?
Well I just got back with the new settings and really couldn't tell much of a difference, though for some reason everything feels a little better throughout. It rips all the way through with no hesitation, bog, etc... I though it messed up at 1st because when I 1st started the bike it wouldn't respond very well at the bottom 1/4 of the throttle. I guess its because it wasn't warmed up throughly, and I just got done messing with the carb, so maybe it was filling with gasoline when I started it again, I don't know, lol. But after about a minute, it was as responsive as ever. This is a good thing because now I will be saving a little gas, not as much as tony because my needle is still more aggresive than his, but its the exact same length as his. I think this is how I will leave the bike, its good enough for me and its still very quiet. Now I need to get a 45 rear sprocket and a new chain.
Now this brings me to another subject. Who makes good chains? I would like to replace the original with an o-ring as well, but where can I get the best bang for the buck for this chain. What manufactuar should I be buying as well, who makes a pretty decent chain? Last question, I know all about the front sprocket, but where can I get the rear 45 tooth sprocket for the bike, I know someone mentioned renthal, whats the part number for renthals 45 tooth that fits our bike?
Parts Unlimited make a great X-ring for $60. This chain has the biggest pins i've seen in a 520 series. Get an extra master, nobody stocks them. As for the Renthal, its aluminum, steel last longer in most cases. The rear is just a KLX300 sprocket, nothin' special.
#19
04-09-2006, 11:53 PM
RE: Dynojet Help
ORIGINAL: incabiker
Well I just got back with the new settings and really couldn't tell much of a difference, though for some reason everything feels a little better throughout. It rips all the way through with no hesitation, bog, etc... I though it messed up at 1st because when I 1st started the bike it wouldn't respond very well at the bottom 1/4 of the throttle. I guess its because it wasn't warmed up throughly, and I just got done messing with the carb, so maybe it was filling with gasoline when I started it again, I don't know, lol. But after about a minute, it was as responsive as ever. This is a good thing because now I will be saving a little gas, not as much as tony because my needle is still more aggresive than his, but its the exact same length as his. I think this is how I will leave the bike, its good enough for me and its still very quiet. Now I need to get a 45 rear sprocket and a new chain.
Now this brings me to another subject. Who makes good chains? I would like to replace the original with an o-ring as well, but where can I get the best bang for the buck for this chain. What manufactuar should I be buying as well, who makes a pretty decent chain? Last question, I know all about the front sprocket, but where can I get the rear 45 tooth sprocket for the bike, I know someone mentioned renthal, whats the part number for renthals 45 tooth that fits our bike?
Well I just got back with the new settings and really couldn't tell much of a difference, though for some reason everything feels a little better throughout. It rips all the way through with no hesitation, bog, etc... I though it messed up at 1st because when I 1st started the bike it wouldn't respond very well at the bottom 1/4 of the throttle. I guess its because it wasn't warmed up throughly, and I just got done messing with the carb, so maybe it was filling with gasoline when I started it again, I don't know, lol. But after about a minute, it was as responsive as ever. This is a good thing because now I will be saving a little gas, not as much as tony because my needle is still more aggresive than his, but its the exact same length as his. I think this is how I will leave the bike, its good enough for me and its still very quiet. Now I need to get a 45 rear sprocket and a new chain.
Now this brings me to another subject. Who makes good chains? I would like to replace the original with an o-ring as well, but where can I get the best bang for the buck for this chain. What manufactuar should I be buying as well, who makes a pretty decent chain? Last question, I know all about the front sprocket, but where can I get the rear 45 tooth sprocket for the bike, I know someone mentioned renthal, whats the part number for renthals 45 tooth that fits our bike?
http://www.grandprixmotorsports.com/...r_Sprocket.htm
I don't see a 45 here, but the Renthal part number should be 112U52-045. I only see them going down to 46 teeth on this page. I got the 49, but took it off. I like the stock gearing better for now. I may change in the future.
For a chain, I got an RK 520XSO X-Ring chain. X-ring is like O-ring, but better since is effectively has two seals per ring instead of just one. For the 14/49 combination, 110 links was perfect. I'm guessing you will need 108 for 14/45. I also bit the bullet and bought the RK chain breaker tool. If you mountain-bike, you are probably familiar with a chain tool. It is like the ones for the little bicycle chains, except much larger to handle the larger chain size. You will need this tool or one similar to press on the RK 520XSO masterlink. It is a press fit, it doesn't slip on easily.
Also, this tool is a handy item to put into the mobile toolbag for longer trips into remote areas. It would also be nice to carry a few extra links which gives you the ability to repair a broken chain out in the middle of nowhere.
Here is the chain:
http://www.cyclepages.com/ProductDet...ductID=4049771
Here is the chain breaker:
http://www.cyclepages.com/ProductGro...roupID=4603473
It is expensive, but it seems like a very well made tool with the ability to remove, repair, and add links. I generally don't skimp on good tools.
#20
04-10-2006, 12:04 AM
RE: Dynojet Help
Thanks for the help again guys,
I really like 1st gear the way it is, I would like 6th gear to transfer more of its power to the road though, even with the carb mods, my bike still slows down on a big long hill and I have to shift back to 5th to accelerate again. I would like to sustain the top gear and not have to worry about shifing up going up hill.
I really like 1st gear the way it is, I would like 6th gear to transfer more of its power to the road though, even with the carb mods, my bike still slows down on a big long hill and I have to shift back to 5th to accelerate again. I would like to sustain the top gear and not have to worry about shifing up going up hill.