Oh, hey Lj, I have finally put all the pieces of your puzzle together - The DJ2182 kit is for a 09-10 KLX250SF - so I guess that is what you have.. I guess you have been using this kit in your bike all along...

So, you will need to verify and make sure that you are using the stock slide spring and NOT the DJ spring that came in that 2182 kit..

Also, I want to make sure you understand that my recipe(s) WILL NOT allow you to run your airbox lid..

And another "Also", how about updating your signature line with your bike, its' setup, and your altitude.. I'm getting to where I can't remember everyone's mods..

 

DRM, I/We are eager for your "ride report" with 1N on your DN0352 needle + stock spring + drilled slide lift port ....?

 

I've been following this thread and decided to try it out with the parts I had in hand. I went from stage 2 dynojet 2152 settings with a 124 main to the following: 0228 needle 2N, stock slide spring, DJ132 main, K40 pilot (when I chanGed it I was surprised to find it had a K45 pilot from the PO), 2.25 turns on the screw. I do run with the lid on and a KDX-like snorkel (homemade, extended intake like stock but sized the same a Kdx). Took a ride from home (1500 ft) up through Angeles National Forest (about 5k feet) to see how it ran (30+ miles). Ran great. pulled strong out of the hole, stong throug the middle and still had better than ever pull at the top end up to 9000rpm. Did a quick fill on the fuel and got somewhere around 50+mpg. It did have more exhaust popping on deceleration than previous but I can live wit that given everything else. May try to get a little larger main later but for now I'm pretty happy. Anyone with suggestion on popping-help appreciated. Thanks to all for this thread, especially klxster.

 

Welcome D..


I don't pretend to know setup recipes for use with snorkels - I just assume DJ has that covered with standard stage 2 instructions. Seems you've choosen well with DJ132/2N..

You cure decel pops with the fuel screw. You must set it more toward rich until the pops are gone - this is assuming your idle is set to 1300 - 1500 rpm.. You should first set up the #40 - The #40 pilot needs the fuel screw set half way between idle drops starting with a baseline idle setting of "right at" 1300 RPM..

BTW, if you ever want a taste of lidless power at your home elevation (1500ft ASL), simply pull the seat and reset the clip to 5N (bottom notch). You will have fueling "good enough" to get a taste of the even bigger power levels we have..

 

I'm second owner. It has all the pollution stuff removed I believe (2nd owner so I'm basing it on what I've seen on other people's bike pics after a delete), yoshi slip-on, uni air filter, KDX snorkel that extends to the leading edge of the air box, 13-42 gearing. That's about it for the motor. I'll mess with the screw tomorrow and see if it's "in the middle". The bike has always popped some on deceleration, just a bit more now. The 45 pilot was a surprise. My bike has always idled high. Not happy at 1300, happier 1500-1800.

 

Yep, a #45 pilot means the original owner was - to be nice about it - listening to the beat of a different drummer or perhaps some idiot like me on a forum..

About trying Lidless power, Houstons4 tested stage 2 (like yours is now) after running a lidless setup - apparently the loss of performance was profound.. His post about this experience is on page 1, #9 ...

 

Fwiw, the standard 2152 stage 2 from dynojet (with the 45 pilot) 0228 needle 3N, dynojet spring, DJ128 main had a bog in the middle. When I changed to DJ124 then it was thin at the top. That's the reason I tried the current setup which feels much better everywhere. All of this is with the lid on and KDX snorkel.

 

Ok, I see.. You used our/now your/ knowledge about slide operation with the DJ and stock spring as well as your own experience to "even out" your fueling curve - eliminating the need for the "either/or" fueling you experienced between the DJ128 and DJ124..

Outstanding!


I assume what you are calling a "bog" is/was a temporary lessening of power somewhere between 5k-6k rpm (when you snap and hold WOT from, say 4K rpm) and not a horrible "stuttering" likely from a malfunctioning diaphragm from a botched carb wrench session that is now fixed..?

The reason I ask is because your "DJ stage 2" should have been working well (if you are near sea level).. Now it wouldn't have with a greatly reduced restriction in the airbox (such as lidless running) as that causes the DJ spring to raise the needle too aggressively...

 

It was like I hit a flat spot what the acceleration pull is less as rpm increases then picks up when you hit about 7k. I had some stutter as well that was mostly remidied when I went from factory needle (one washer under needle head as gotten from po, with K118 main) to DJ. Now is generally much better. Had one instance of stutter yesterday when motor was still cold, none warm. Gonna run it more today to see how she does.

 

Ok, the "flat spot" is a tuning issue - stuttering is a malfunction not cured with tuning - but history has shown that, for some unknown reason, it can be "covered up" with really lean main jetting..

What seems to be happening - constantly and consistently - is that a re-wrench session, on the carb, cures the stuttering and whatever the new setup is, its' hailed as the "cure" - it is not the cure - a more successful reassembly cured it, or extraordinarily lean main jetting covered it up (costing HP/TRQ in the process)..

While the stutters are still a mystery, we are slowly gaining knowledge on the subject.. At this point in time, consistent/persistent diaphragm mis-alignment / mis-seating during reassembly is the focus.. Kshanks has cured his stutters multiple times now by "going back in" for a careful "inspection and reassembly" session.. Perhaps we need a short video of exactly what a properly seated diaphragm looks like.. I write about it, with our latest findings, on post #2 here - https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...s-fixes-43146/

I guess the point is that a malfunctioning (stuttering) carb requires troubleshooting and fixing - Once fixed, proper performance assessments can be made with different fueling setups. Otherwise, combining a faulty carb with performance tuning will only create unwarranted blame or praise for the tuning setup based on whether the malfunction was "fixed", "made worse", etc..