While I don't pretend to know the proper setup for use with snorkels (Broken record, eh?)

The stock spring + 2N will serve to keep 3k-7K rpm more properly fueled with larger main jets (larger than usually used with snorkels), otherwise, such larger mains would overfuel that range.. While I do not know if there are any gains to be found above 7K (7K - 9.5K) with a snorkel in place, the only way to find out is with larger main jets and proper dynobutt testing..

 

Hey Klxster. Long time no talk. I'm ready to do the MCM but a bit nervous. Do you have a clean link? Also will order a header. Which one? Power or mega bomb? I have the Q4 slip on. Will change to 144 and 1N? Stock or dj spring on 2152 kit? Is this all going to make big change? Thanks Kevin

 

Use the link on KLX678's signature line for photos, etc - do not try to "fix" a "wire" onto the KACR, just pull its' spring..

Power or Mega - up to you. I know how your bike is gonna feel with the Megabomb+Q4, It'll be incredible.. Others have the Powerbomb and are also quite elated with the new power of DJ144/1N Lidless+MCM (stock spring).. And we don't know what or how much difference there is between the two, powerwise.. The Megabomb is much more expensive and is suppose to preserve low/mid trq better than the Powerbomb. IF it were me, I'd get whatever I could get the best deal on..

I assume you are not running some kind of "quiet tip" / restriction on the end of your Q4..

I can't remember how you are set up now - probly outta put your "mod list" on your signature line - but regardless of your present "mods" , the new power levels you'll get will be far greater.. It's not really possible to describe except to repeat what I and the others say about it - It's like getting a whole new bike..

Edit: Ok I went back thru your posts.. You're running the DJ140(K152)/2N lidless setup for stock header+slipon.. So yeah, adding MCM and a header and the new carb setup will give you the same power you have now below 6.5K rpm but greatly enhance it from 6.5k - 10.5K rpm..

 

Right now I have lidless, 2152 stock spring 2N, 140 and #40 with a Q4 regular tip and stock header

 

Awesome.....thx

 

I went from a DJ Stage 2 (DJ128/3N, lighter spring) to the DJ140/2N on stock spring (and 38 pilot). I am now lidless, UNI filter, stock header, and FMF Q4 (no spark arrestor or inserts)

Bike actually puts me back when i get on the gas now. Has better throttle response (crisper) everywhere in the rev range. Seems like it picked up some snot from off idle to about 4k, and pulls noticeably harder from 7K-Redline. I am running the SF 39 tooth sprocket, my bike has never power only wheelied, but now I can feel the front wheel skipping, its just about to take flight on throttle only.

My midrange still feels similar to the DJ Stg2, that is...it seems very "fat". Its not horrible...the best I can describe it is I feel like the low range and high RPM are greatly improved but the mid range (4-7k) is just so so... Great tq off idle that tapers off at 4-7 then another big increase of power after 7k.

 

Apparently my instructions are not as succinct as they should be. You are not running the proper setup for your mod list. Only by adding MCM can you attempt DJ140/2N Lidess, stock spring, near sea level. However, even with MCM, I would run 1N only..

You are correct that there is a rich AFR that occurs in the 5-6.5K range when you snap and hold WOT from idle-3K with your mod list and DJ140/2N.

As soon as you can, go back in and reset the clip to the top notch (1N), super glue the two DJ washers on top of the clip, reassemble - hold on tight !

If you need more details regarding why 1N must be used, let me know..

 

For the forum: Max power KLX250 setups are -

1. Stock header, performance slipon, Lidless airbox, MCM or not - DJ140|K152 /1N with stock spring and stock slide lift hole/port.

2. Full performance system (Header and slipon), Lidless airbox, MCM or not -
DJ144|K158 /1N with stock spring and stock slide lift hole/port.

You can use any of the two DJ needles - I advocate using the DNO352 needle from the DJ2206 kit as it better controls low-mid range fueling - enhancing throttle response, power, and power ramp-up over the DN0228 needle in the DJ2152 kit.

If you are not near sea level, the main jet size will need to be calculated for your altitude.
Adding MCM to either of the above will significantly increase power levels idle - 6.5K but with a tiny loss above (Less than 1hp)..

 

I got the 140/2N from the link in your sig "Dyno Tuning/Results with stock header + DGR slipon":

"1. Lidless + MCM + Stock Header with Slip-on Silencer OR KLX300 exhaust system(uncorked): Use DJ140/2N - for max power near sea level. Alternatively use a K152 main jet + N1TC @ 2N + drilled slide(7/64) + stock slide spring. If NON-MCM, use the stock slide spring with stock lift hole"

the proper setup for me would be 140/1N on stock spring? 1N b/c mid range is going rich with the big jets, i get it.

I will swap to 1N and see what happens, what kind of glue do you use? just regular super glue? Have my 330 kit coming next week so I will leave it at 1N and change main jets to 146 probably

 

got another small problem, which is the DJ spring and which is stock? They feel the same to me....but one (that i think is stock) is a good bit longer.

Thanks