Readjusted the screw a little today. Tried to do it on a warm engine. Got turned in to 1 3/4 turns out and gave up...too many burns to do any back and forth. I've seen a picture of the magic tool but for me there was just barely enough room to get a screwdriver bit in there and turn it with my fingers. The screw has so much drag that I just gave up after 1/2 turn in. Rode a while, a little less deceleration popping. Had the stutter, again only once, right at 6.5k rpm. Other than that I'm pretty happy. Good acceleration everywhere, smooth and strong. With respect to seating the diaphragm, there's a good YouTube video on installing a cvk diaphragm from Harley Davidson:


It was in flat and nicely seated just like the video shows. Take a look, mine worked just like shown in the vid, including verifying operation.

 

His diaphragm install/instruction is flawed - perhaps fatally flawed.

He shows that when "cupped", the diaphragm doesn't seat properly in the groove - Yet when "mushroomed" it will - So he puts the cap on with the diaphragm "mushroomed". What he leaves out (the fatal flaw) is that as soon as the cap is pushed onto the carb, the spring force causes the diaphragm to "cup" before the cap gets anywhere near the seated position on top of the carb casting !!!!!

I suppose he could have held the slide steady in the "wide open" position with his other hand while seating the cap - but, if so, why would he do that and not speak about it..


Having 6 years of instructing aspiring computer technicians means I have an eye for omissions of instructional details - and the problems they cause..


Still, the smooth operation of the slide with a "finger raise" and the "air gun raise" are helpful tests.. Kshanks noted that his stuttering slide offered variable resistance to a "finger lift" , and when seated properly, it offered "even" resistance..

 

KLXster, I have an '07 but I bought the unused PC4 slip-on and jet kit from a former member here a few years ago...about 30 minutes after I had convinced myself to leave this bike stock for a change. It had the needle and jet I needed even thought it was not intended for my bike.

I received the DJ140 jet on Friday and installed it Friday night. So I'm now running the 140 main, the DJ needle w/ clip in 2nd position, stock spring, no lid, and PC4 slip-on. Bike runs great, but I didn't notice a huge difference from my previous set-up: 128 main, KDX snorkel, DJ spring, same slip-on. Maybe Santa will bring me a Megabomb and a day off to do the MCM.

Thanks again for all the great advise!

 

mixed feelings...

low end and mid range torque is better; no bogging. high end power is great. fuel economy stinks. I did a 400+ mile ride this weekend and got some solid run time with the setup. 35-65mph secondary roads, fast gravel, fast 2 track, and general flogging and jack-assery of the bike as I usually "ride it like I stole it". My gearing is stock 14-42 and works great for my riding style and terrain.

stock DJ2206 setup never dropped below 55mpg; usually 60-65mpg combined on similar trips. my average this past trip ranged from 40-45mpg.

i'm almost tempted to put it back stock DJ2206 style as i had it and re-gain my mpg's.

 

The only accounts we have concerning power increases using lidless+setup over Standard DJ stage 2 is from Houstons4 and, now, you.. Since we have no dyno data to show this difference, we can only make educated guesses - IMO, it is possible that the biggest increases (increases that one could easily feel) would occur at 6.5k to 9.5k rpm and sensing this would require testing/riding technique for this rpm range..

 

Yes, there is no doubt that MPG will take a "hit" with "riding it like you stole it" with the K152 main jet .. However, "MPG conscious riding" should return really good numbers.. I ride mine "like I stole it" and "gas mileage" is not in my vocabulary - it's other members that have reported really great numbers with thoughtful riding..

I'm not MPG sensitive, but I can see where my Jack-Assery riding could be "toned down" a little without becoming too boring - I doubt the traffic really admires my full throttle 1st gear wheelies away from stop lights! lol

IMO, your worst MPG "hit" will be 7K rpm and up @ WOT - as IMO, that is where the K152+lidless provides the most improvement in power (and fueling) over the standard DJ setup with the 2206 kit..

 

Dezertdirt, at this point you've reported "one single stutter" several times.. This pretty much proves that you DO NOT have a malfunctioning slide.. The stutters I am referring to is a debilitating condition that constantly/persistently renders the bike useless within the "stuttering rpm range" - this range generally spans about 500 rpm and generally occurs somewhere between 4.5k-6.5k rpm.

What you are calling "stuttering" sounds more like the "momentary ignition miss" some of us get from time to time..

 

Sorry I've been away for a day. Yes, it's a single miss. I've been looking at the ground wire issue that some have had with their rectifier as a possible solution. I won't get to it for a few day since I'm visiting my son. I'm actually considering buying a second klx to keep at his house (6000 ft altitude and 7 hours drive from me) so I don't that to port my bike back and forth. I'll fill in on both when it happens.

 

This is the ground wire deal I mentioned in my last post.

KLX World: KLX 250 Rectifier ground mod - possible fix for ~6500 RPM stumble

 

Did the ground wire mode exactly as described in the link in my last post. No stumbles so far. Only have gone about 10 miles since mod but so far so good. An odd side effect appears to be that the idle increased from a steady 1500 to just under 2000 rpm. Not sure why that would be, just know that it is (so far).

Bottom line is that I think I have the carb just about right (might try upsizing to DJ134) and with the ground wire deal, the bike runs better than ever. Still have the annoying popping on decel (and occasionally when shifting), but it gives me something else to work on.