Todays Chart on top - DJ136 , Needle on 3rd notch, DG-R
Previous Chart bottom - DJ132, Needle on 4th notch, DG-R in Red, Full FMF in Blue

Lid off, MCM, SAE corrected HP and TRQ

 

It's a shame the RPM range is different. But it's still easy enough to compare if you pick your points of comparison.

I'm not seeing much of a difference comparing torque curve.
Like looking at 8k RPM, the new #136 may have a little bit more torque (13? vs 12.5).
And also no weird small dip between 5 and 5.5k RPM.

Any advantages the #132 have over #136? So far I'm not spotting anything.

 

You've got figured out Zeno. All I really got out of the 136 was a smooth curve - a more steady power delivery with minor increases showing on the new chart. The seat of pants is a strong power delivery when snapping to WOT from any starting RPM..

 

Are you guys referencing Dynojet numbers? How much of an improvement is the 136/3N over the 128/3N? That's what I'm running now with just the snorkel removed and a TBR M7 exhaust.

Worth the effort to throw in the 136?

 

Boatdriver, your running the DJ kit as per instructions. I have talked to one of the DJ jetting specialists several times about our KLX's. They developed the kit using a dead stock bike. As a consequence, the kit works quite well on a 100% stock bike. Throw on an exhaust system, pull the airbox lid, and things change - The kit runs the bike lean. In this configuration, the more you richen the AFR, the more the bike "wakes up" - especially the top end.
I have not compared 132/4n or 136/3n with lid off to your 128/3n lid on. But with the lid off, the 132/4n or 136/3n are a very noticable power increase over 128/3n.
So I'd do this if I were you.
Assuming your near sea level, throw in the #132 from your kit, set the needle to 4th notch down, pull off the airbox lid, leave the fuel screw way out - 3 or more turns - and give her a ride.. The bike will run perfectly, but you'll have to judge the performance difference for yourself. The AFR's will still be lean - target AFR for max power is 12.2-12.8:1 - but the 132/4n is the best the kit has to offer.. The 136/3n is a slight improvement over 132/4n.

I know many of us would be interested in your assessment of the performance differences..

 

Anybody have experience with jetting at 5000-6000 feet altitude?

 

I'm at 5000 using dynojet kit with DJ126 main, needle in 4n, 2.5 turns out on fuel screw, no lid and FMF slip on. The bike runs really good, much better than 124 and 3n, specially in mid range.

Based on these dyno charts, I'm going to move up to 128 main, keep the needle on 4, see how that goes.

 

Only had a little time today so I just twisted the carb in place and switched the 128 out for a 132. Left the needle in the 3n position. We'll see how that works out. Went ahead and left the lid on with snorkel removed. I'm hoping that will richen things up. My header was getting hotter on this bike than my other one so I think it was pretty lean.

I also ordered the P1X tip to quiet this damn M7 down a bit. This TBR is loud. I'll have to see how that affects things too once it comes in.

 

Ok fellas, boatdriver and I have been PM'ing about his carb setup.. he is now at 132/4n with lid off and is very happy with the new found performance. Seems there is much more power to be found past standard stage 2. I've never run with the lid on so I never knew how 132/4n lid off compared to 128/3n lid on... Now we know..

 

I just tried 132/4n at 5000 feet asl. Surprisingly, there wasn't any hesitation from the richness although the bike did feel more soggy in the top end compared with 126/4n. This is just seat of the pants testing around the house as I have no where safe to pull repeated runs. The 2 sizes felt very close in performance, very good from 6k to 9k rpms, but the 126 was better and peppier, so I will try 128/4n in between both.

Based on this correction chart for elevation, I am using a factor of .95, which would make the following jets comparable at 4.5k feet vs sea level:
126 - 133
128 - 135
132 - 139

My biggest concern is 3k rpm to 5.5 rpm, it's a complete dead spot at WOT, and only slightly better at half throttle. I will check the float height according to this site. If I can get that range half as good as 6k-9k is now I'll be very satisfied. Any suggestions?