I did the double snorkel mod this weekend, and installed the shift star fix from Four Stroke Works...
No ride report just yet - just finished yesterday afternoon and had to go out last night so I haven't ridden it yet.
I also filled up with Synthetic so I expect the shifting to be silky smooth now!

I noticed on the stock filter element, when I removed it, that the dirt was concentrated on a small area at the top of the dome (right where the air exited the snorkel). Makes sense - the air follows the path of least resistance and so the sides of the filter get used less.

So my thought was to make more exit holes at various locations, the air will flow into different areas of the filter element, not just the top. (See pic #3, the bottom of the snorkel).

 

I ended up not using the air box lid all together. That was from the Mechanic at the shop and who is also a really good rider/racer.

 

Yeah, I was runnin with no lid on my CR125 and it never caused any major issues... You can sure hear it though.

But, the first time I removed the seat on my KLX250S, I had a big muddy splash on top of the airbox, so since then I've been a little hesitant to remove it (the very first ride splashed mud on top of the airbox).

I'm sure it wouldn't have been disastrous, but it would certainly require you to pay a lot more attention to the filter element.

 

Install the Muzzy and you won't hear the intake noise.

 

I tried to run with the lid off, but the bike wouldn't start... I tried for several minutes and it would just not start. As soon as I set the lid back on it started. Anybody have any suggestions?

 

I see you have dynojet stickers on your bike and assume you have installed the dyno. What elevation are you at? I getting ready to install the dyno and am at about 5200ft and am not sure what clip to put on and what jet. I am waiting for Big Gun to install all together.

 

I live at about 150 feet above sea level, so my settings probably won't help you, but...
128 main, 40 pilot, needle clip on 3rd from top plus ONE dynojet shim/washer. Roughly 2 turns out on the pilot screw.

I haven't taken it into the mountains yet with the new settings either.

 

I bet ya are running a little lean, but I'm used to outboards, try twisting out the air/fuel screw a quarter turn.

 

ride report on the star shifter ........ when you have the time [8D]

 

Well, I went for an hour ride last night... The shifting felt - well - notchy is what I would call it... Not bad, but not the "silky smooth" I thought it would be. There is definitely a more positive "click" when changing gears. This is from the dowel that slipped over the spring. It preloads the spring quite a bit more so the roller sits in the detent with much more force.

I didn't have any false neutrals which is great. However, this shift star fix won't stop you from going 1 to neutral (when you're trying to go 1 to 2). That's something the rider just has to avoid (a weak 1 to 2 change). Don't ask how I know.

Also, I goofed up when putting it back together. A few warnings/tip for the rest of y'all if you decide to try this:

1) When re-assembling the shifter cover, star, fork, and neutral sensor, be sure to remember which way the commutator shaft was facing when it came off! (The commutator is what I call part # 13280 below). It's a keyed shaft and it will fit in 2 ways - 180 degrees from each other. If you put it on the opposite direction, you're neutral light will come on in 5th gear rather than in neutral. This makes the bike not start with the kickstand down because it thinks it's in gear. Again, don't ask how I know this.

2) You don't have to take off your front sprocket. It was a very tight fit though - getting the cover off took some creative twisting and jiggling to get it around the sprocket / frame / etc. But I was having one HELL of a time getting that front sprocket bolt off (never did get it), so I proceeded without it. Didn't look like it was entirely necessary, but it would have given me a little more room to get the cover in/out.

Overall, I was surprised at the notchy feel, but it's not really a bad notchy I guess. Just a more significant "chck". Which might actually work out well because I found it was hard to "feel" the shifter with my MX boots on. I think I'll like it if it gets rid of the false neutral problem.