Actually for me not for the KLX. Since new I have used Honda Synthetic Blend w/o Moly oil for the KLX. I have always used this oil for my CBR600RR so I just continued to use it on the KLX. On my last oil change, I used Maxima Synthetic Blend oil. When it gets hot now, it is much harder to find neutral than it was with the Honda oil. So from my experience the Honda oil is better than the Maxima for the KLX. For my next oil change, I am going to try fully synthetic for the KLX. If I notice no improvement over the Honda oil, I will go back to the Honda as it would be cheaper than a fully synthetic.

Oil discussion would be sort of useless for the CBR as it shifts like butter and neutral is super easy and instantaneously attainable regardless of the temp or the oil.

 

What is your definition of "fully synthetic"? Examples?

 

An example would be Mobil 1.

Many oils are synthetic blend meaning it is a mix of synthetic oil and petroleum-based oil. This reduces cost and still gives synthetic oil benefits.

It tells you on the bottle what it is. Petroleum, Synthetic Blend, 100% Synthetic, etc.

 

I don't think that's the case anymore.

 

Really? I thought they all disclosed that...at least the ones that I buy do.

 

I think what he means is that the definition of "fully synthetic" is not what it used to be after some court action by or against one of the oil manufacturers.

 

That court action was Mobil vs. Castrol. The legal result made the term "synthetic" into a marketing term...no longer a Scientific designation.

Mobil 1 still claims many of it's oils are a polyalphaolefin (PAO for short), with "additives". Zinc dithiophosphate is a named additive. What they don't say is: what are the other additives? Note, in the MSDS sheet, they list a mineral oil as one of the components of the final product. Some people surmise this is a Group III severely hydrocracked petroleum, just as what Castrol got named as a "synthetic". These same people think that it only makes sense for Mobil to blend their PAO with some Group III oil (now, legally called a "synthetic), as PAO's have some inherent tendencies that aren't the greatest for a lubricant. I don't know the real recipe.

But, when I look at the specs for three of the Mobil products: 15w-50, High Mileage 10w-40 and Motorcycle 10w-40, I believe I'd pick the 15w-50 based upon viscosity at operating temps as well as HTHS numbers. Measured in centi-Stokes at 100 degrees C, respectively: 18.1, 14.71, and 13.8. Viscosity Index, respectively: 154, 156, and 164. Flashpoints are: 235, 240, and 253. HTHS are only listed for the first two: 4.5 and 4.06.

While the VI is best for the Motorcycle version, and the flashpoint is better on the Motorcycle version, they don't list the HTHS for the Motorcycle version. HTHS is probably the most important number of all, and the 15w-50 is the highest of those listed.

I'll see about getting these values for Rotella, and post them, too.

 

I was running Motul (synthetic - ester) with no issues until my local dealer stopped carrying it. I switched to Kawasaki branded synthetic and shortly thereafter started drooling a lot of oil from the valve cover gasket area. I think some additive in the Kaw. oil ate the silicone sealent around the gasket. I'm going to try to find another local source for Motul, it was good stuff.

 

sanpedro this may have nothing to do with the oil your running but maybe more of a coincidence. It is a common problem for the 09 models to leak there. It seems Kawi may have made a back batch of valve cover gaskets. Mine started leaking about the second time I rode it. Since I replaced it and haven't had any more problems.

 

I meant " bad batch of valve cover gaskets"