Does the KLX250 have a shared sump (wet clutch)?
#1
Does the KLX250 have a shared sump (wet clutch)?
Since folks don't like to talk oil on here much I've been doing some research over on
Bob Is The Oil Guy - Forums powered by UBB.threads™
Just to verify, our bikes do have a wet clutch right?
Bob Is The Oil Guy - Forums powered by UBB.threads™
Just to verify, our bikes do have a wet clutch right?
#4
Since folks don't like to talk oil on here much I've been doing some research over on
Bob Is The Oil Guy - Forums powered by UBB.threads™
Just to verify, our bikes do have a wet clutch right?
Bob Is The Oil Guy - Forums powered by UBB.threads™
Just to verify, our bikes do have a wet clutch right?
#6
I'm still trying to get a handle on all the acronyms. But so far it's been very informative. My initial question was about putting an auto 10w-40 synthetic in the bike. From what I've read there is no measurable difference between an auto and motorcycle synthetic. So when I went to buy a synthetic 10w-40 they were all marketed as "high-mileage/older car" oils. I didn't want to put an oil in the bike that may have an additive that would have an adverse affect on the engine. So I spent the $$$ and put in the Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40. However, next year when I change the oil I might play with the weight a little and go with a 5w-40. But for now while still under warranty I'm going to still with the manufacturer's recommended 10w-40.
#7
I use Motul 3000 20-50 mineral oil (US$10/L) since the first oil change. Bike has over 37,000km, and it hasn´t been even 2 years since I got it from the dealer. Which means I ride it a lot, every day, and between 6-7k rpm most of the time of my commute. I change oil every 5,000km. Bike still runs good as new.
IMO, the whole oil discussion is a waste of time, and a result of marketing hype and BS from people that know $h!7.
IMO, the whole oil discussion is a waste of time, and a result of marketing hype and BS from people that know $h!7.
#8
Keep in mind the first number is the viscosity rating at low temperatures (0 degrees F IIRC) and the second number is the rating of the viscosity at operating temperature (200 degrees F usually). The W stands for winter.
So the only difference between 10w-40 and 15w-40 is that the second oil is going to be more viscous ("thicker" if you will) at 0 degrees than first oil. Both will be identical at operating temp.
Unless you are planning to go riding in below freezing weather, i wouldn't waste any time in worrying about the winter rating of an oil.
Just my .02
So the only difference between 10w-40 and 15w-40 is that the second oil is going to be more viscous ("thicker" if you will) at 0 degrees than first oil. Both will be identical at operating temp.
Unless you are planning to go riding in below freezing weather, i wouldn't waste any time in worrying about the winter rating of an oil.
Just my .02
#9
Does the "W" really stand for winter??? Never knew that, but I did know that the numbers did cover the low and high ends. Seems to me the W is redundant, or even useless, since some places may stay below 10 or 20 even in the summer (think Antarctica).
#10
So why are you loosing time taking part of that discussion?