I missed the part about the 35 pilot, common practice is a 40.

Look at the KLX250 cheap hop ups in my signature to see what some others have done. I didn't do the work, I just got it more readily available. That is where the jetting is mentioned and some of the tried and true work done using KLX300 Keihin parts before Dyno Jet kits were made. It was the guide my brother and I, among others, followed and pretty much was plug and play. I only added a note in the stuff about the Dial-A- Jet we used. Otherwise it's what had been done in 2006-07 to make the bikes run decently. Again, pre-Dyno Jet.

Again, pulling the enrichener (choke) button out will slightly richen your mix. If the surging smooths out a bit or totally, it is lean on the needle. No change then it isn't lean.

 

Well, it's been a slice. I'll be signing off soon, as I've received an offer on my klx250s that is well within the realm of profit. I'm going back to the dark side.... looking at a wr250x with dirt rims. I really wanted to turn the klx250s into a supermoto by day and dirt bike by saturday but rims are common as hen's teeth and I'll never get my money back on this thing if I keep dumping money into it. Have fun!

 

DP before you go lol. Suggestion. Go back to what you liked and find a riding buddy so you have a constant comparison as you move forward. One step at a time and prove it in reality not on the 'net.
This whole MCM, lidless, big jets and loud was almost a deal breaker for me too. Too much 'net is the problem lol. Sometimes you godda do what you godda do 'cause you're there and they are not

If you have the DJ 250 kit, you may be mixing and matching. That needle was designed for the later NNLA needle set-up with all it's different parts. I like the 300 needle (stock or DJ) personally with our carb and parts.
IMO reading more on the 300 set-ups (lidless or not that is you're pick at the start but do try both) from the past is more relevant and maybe even more "proven".
For instance the pilot jet. 35 is just right (2.25 turns on mine) as a 250 and as a 300 is too rich with 1.5 turns required (back to looking for a 32.5 for me).
Exhaust. I have a can on the shelf. The stock (front to rear) was stronger from bottom to upper mid with the 250. It was just unplugged at the end and sounds just right for me. With the 300 it feels good so far but I will try the can again when I get a chance at side by side testing with my bud.
Heck when you're done you might be selling off parts,like pipes and heavy springs, to recoupe wasted cash.

And,,, again,,, you're probably not broken, or scratched, or sticky, or stupid 'cause I'm not and have some similar results.

And,,, the 260 loonies for the 300kit (plus gaskets) really brought the 2 valve low end back to this 4 valve motor. More difference than every "free" one combined.
I had ridden the YZ and CRF (I'm assuming you're still looking at street legal) before I picked up the '06 '07 klx for it's suspension and clearance, and their low end (Honda is better than YZ and the '17 improved on that) is even worse IMO, but you don't have to tear a carb apart lol and efi is clean reving if left stock.

klx 678. "Miniscule changes" is the name of the game in cam design and yah, it does make a difference.
My bike is much "free'er" reving now (with the new cam) in the upper rpm and I'm not even at the WOT part of break-in.
Easiest way to measure a cam for me is chuck it on centers in the lathe with a dividing plate on the head and mount a long travel indicator in the tool post and perfect lift readings in each degree. Thing is the difference in the cams was enough to be visual for me so I moved on.
There has been much discussed about the MCM. The 8* change is huge and didn't work for me as advertised. If I try something again it will be more in the line of a 4* change closer to Web Cams design and it will be easier with a rethink on the sprocket bolts 'cause there is almost 2.5* of movement there already.
If it's OK with you I'll be another to say no to the MCM for me and it had nothing to to with top end power. I missed my bottom end.

KLXster. Appreciate your effort but before you say dyno again let me say, again, dynos are like opinions. So many variables in machine and man as well as testing in a non real world.
Everyone has heard the jokes. Can't win racing a dyno, dyno HP not real HP, same dyno same day (kinda like testing side by side eh),,,. Those all came about because people who tested found subjective HP dyno claimed did not match objective performance-HP when tested where it really lives.
IMO, for me, on my bike, in my riding area lol,,, DP hit the nail on the head when he said MCM, lidless, 1n, big jet and loud is a street set up.

Good for you but not for me and I consider that OK if different. Maybe it's just a Canadian thing but definitely not puzzling.

 

Thanks for the words of encouragement geo. I'm almost tempted to keep the klx250s, but I'm tired of tinkering. It's summer and I want to log kms not hours fixing...

As far as riding buddy's go, my options are few. I have a friend who just picked up his first dual sport (wr250r) after years of watching me disappear into the forest, only to return grinning and covered in dirt. Our trail access is a good haul from homebase, with a considerable amount of highway. The klx250s does the job, but the wr250r does it better. Other option is group rides on facebook groups..

I'm on my 3rd klx250s.. over the years I've logged too many hours to mention, pulling that carb out. Each time, thinking it will be the last time. Heck, I bought my first wr250r mostly so I wouldn't have to **** with carbs anymore. I'm not inclined to do it again, especially that the bike is halfway sold. Unfortunately I'm at the point where I would rather move on, than keep fighting this bike. I'm at the point in my life where the power really doesn't matter anymore.. especially after all this. It's the delivery of said power, and suspension to carry it. The klx250s stage II is enough for me, as was the wr250r in stock form. I wish I wasn't so curious, I wish I had left it stock.

I could easily go back to stock, but that wouldn't solve problem #2.. the feedback I get on the road. The bike is great offroad, the .46kg front springs are awesome and the rear being slightly too stiff for my weight prevents bottoming etc. I have zero complaints about this bike's suspension once the dirt appears. The thing that makes me want to sell the bike the most is the road manners. I could eat trail just as good on my wr250r, but it wouldn't get squirrely on the highway, or send feedback into my arms when riding down smooth road. I've posted in other threads about this, and tried all the suggestions. I can admit defeat..it's not going to go away with my troubleshooting. I avoid paying a shop to do anything on my bike... and dropping cash to chase a gremlin isn't something I can afford to do. I'd rather start fresh with something that has no issues. Right now, the bike pisses me off everytime I go for a ride. No amount of clickers, springs rates or preload adjustments have alleviated my issues. The only time it felt good was with another 45lbs on the back, on my last tour. This tells me it might be the rear spring rate or perhaps the rear fork oil. Either way, I hit a wall everytime I turn around on this bike. Sometimes you gotta admit the bike isn't working for you. The thing I fear the most in life is dropping cash to fix a problem (be that new parts or shop time) and still experiencing the issue.

I appreciate all the suggestions and advice I've received so far, it's so nice to have people take the time to try and help. That being said, this is taking up way too much of my mental capacity and causing too much stress. I have so many other things/ projects that go unfinished because I'm constantly trying to sort out this bike. I don't know if the previous owner did something to it, but never in my experience of owning dual sport motorcycles (8 so far) have I been so stumped by a problem... I take pride in my ability to troubleshoot, think critically and solve problems. It's frustrating to hit a wall like this, but luckily the bike market is hot here so it's easy to change up when needed.

 

Like I said, time to look for one... By the way was it the 1364 or 1365 cam that you got? Wasn't it the 94-96 that reved harder?

All I pointed out was that per the numbers by Kawasaki they all will use the same cam. I do agree with your method of checking. That tells the real thing.

As for the MCM, whatever. I have no problem with whatever anyone does with their bike. I may offer up a suggestion, like using the jetting established by a lot of testing by riders in 2006 and 2007 which apparently works pretty well for many, when someone asks. I like plug and play since I don't have the money for all the equipment and the dyno time. I have to go old school and hope I can get in the ball park with others' past experience. Worked for me on an 09 and my brother on an 06.

 

Geo, I thank you for appreciating my effort in this thread.. I have no idea what point you are trying to make regarding dyno testing - perhaps you are speaking from "old school" thinking..As I've already stated, I consider it a tool to verify WOT fueling and power levels - Now days, properly maintained DynoJet 250i's produce consistent SAE results regardless of location/altitudes..

Perhaps we should agree to disagree.. And with that, I believe I'm done here...

 

Psyche! I'm not going anywhere.

After a relaxing Canada Day long weekend, away from home and the stress of tinkering... I decided it was worth it to keep trying at this Green Bastard (from parts unknown.. :P Trailer Park Boys reference... )

I bought this bike for a great deal, and even if it takes me spending some money to get it going, I'll still come in way under the cost of another bike, especially at this time of the year.

I went back to basics. I reinstalled the airbox lid, put the kdx snorkel back on. Replaced the DJ needle with the stock needle that came with the bike. Put in a DJ 120 main jet, and set my Dial A Jet to max fuel addition. Coming from the lidless recipe, there is a obvious drop in power at higher rpm, doesn't feel the same when I drop the clutch and roll the throttle. This is ok, and expected.

Bike lifted the front wheel with a stab at WOT around 4k rpm. Power is lacking everywhere else, compared to DJ stage 2 or the lidless setup, but down low there seems to be better power.

 

You know what might give you the bit more "grunt". Same thing trials bikes do. If there is enough room and a way to attach it you could add a bit of flywheel weight. My old 250 Sherpa T only came in at a claimed 18 hp, but that thing could go about anywhere due to some serious flywheel effect. Engine momentum, that's what it is. A lot of XC racers will use MXers with bolt on weight for flywheel momentum in the tougher terrain that rewards the ability to continue moving versus instant throttle.