You have to have the front wheel WAY off the ground before your weight would be helpful. Until your weight goes past the pivot point its working completely against the front wheel coming up. Once you are nearing the balance point you are right the weight is going to help keep it up as it it nearing/passing the balance point, but that is a bigger wheelie than you need to pop over a log.... but until that point it is completely against you.

Its a torque/lever problem. Torque length is from the rear wheel axle up to the centroid of mass (heavier the rider the more the mass), that means it takes more torque to lift that lever arm.

If we are just talking about popping the front wheel 2ft off the ground, then there is no way shape or form that being heavier helps you, it hurts you.

torque=mass*length. More mass, more torque required.

 

You may want to rethink this!

 

"I seem to have no guts until I get over 4k rpm."

Not only that, you have no "guts" until about 5.5k in your current setup.. Now I understand that different riders will want different powerbands based on the RPM range they like to ride in, that is why I have two basic recipes. For those that want to have max TRQ from idle to 6.5k with a nice top end should go with stock header+MCM+ DJ140/1N lidless. Those that want best overall power curves should go Full exhaust+MCM+DJ144/1N lidless. Anyone that wants only the best power above 7K should go full exhaust+DJ144/1N lidless without the MCM - this setup will have a VERY soft bottom and mid..

Each of those 3 will have different throttle responses and power levels below 6.5k and require completely different riding styles in order to keep the RPM's in the "power range" - and wheelies will require different RPM starting points..

In my wheelie vid below on my signature line, you can see the performance of the stock header recipe..IIRC, those snaps were from about 4-4.2k rpm..

 

Well the bike is back to dynojet power now, 128 main jet, kdx snorkel and 3n on the needle. It doesn't have the same snap when I wack it WOT but it is smoother overall and still pulls pretty nice all the way up to 9.5k-10k rpm. Also, the noise difference is huge. Even with the MCM, that airbox is a growler. Having the kdx snorkel and lid on really lets the pipe do the talking, and I enjoy the overall sounds alot more.

I think I'll be leaving it with this jetting, and getting a bigger bore sometime before the summer ends. Probably keep it modest, with the 300cc option.. I might throw the stock header back on too, but for now there are other things to do, like ride and customize my tw200

 

Well, I've recovered enough from reading the post above to say.. WTH !!!

 

Dont need to. Its called physics, really not even high school physics...

Maybe you can draw me a diagram or show me where (sitting still, no body english) the equation for torque supports your logic.

 

Don't challenge me to a physics problem. I'm busy right now, maybe in a couple of weeks.

 

You have been challenged.

 

Wheelie opinions aside, my bike now has zero hesitation after first starting it up. It even starts without the choke now. For some reason, the lidless recipe wasn't agreeing with my bike as much as the dynojet recipe. There was crazy more power at WOT, but there seems to be more trackable power all over the throttle range with DJ128 and 3n with KDX snorkel and DJ spring. It almost feels like alot of the power was just noise.. aside from at WOT.

One thing I'd like to bring up is that the dyno charts given as proof of H.P. and torque are for WOT, are they not? There is no chart for how much power is being produced at steady half throttle etc. Sure... more power can be had if you spend all your time at WOT, but who does that?

I never have the throttle wide open when I'm doing tight single track trails, or cruising around town. I don't try to race people either.. it's a 250. I appreciate all the work that goes into tuning these bikes and the time spend on a dyno run... but real world application is a different story. I'm not pissing on the lidless recipe, but it's not the cat's *** either :P I'm honestly enjoying my bike more now that I was with the lid off... but to each his own.

Oh yea, and wheelies are easier now too :O So much mystery... :P

 

Well, I kinda like that there is now one member that prefers DJ Stage II over lidless. Never thought I'd see this.. The others that went both ways have always agreed - they'd never run DJ STG II again..

Your "Full FMF+MCM+lidless" setup: While best overall power, the idle-5k power is not as enhanced as the rest is.. For that, you have to use the "stock header+MCM+lidless" recipe (DJ140/1N)..

It seems that going back to DJ Stage II has changed the "low end" power and throttle response to better suit your expectations and riding style. It could make sense that the Snorkel, while more restrictive, creates more velocity thru the induction system, creating a better throttle response to the "low end" rpm range (below 4.5K) - So I can see how you aren't completely crazy/psycho/demented/hallucinating/deranged/unhinged/nutso/whacky/batty/cuckoo/loopy/off the reservation/two fries short of a happy meal/product of genetic engineering gone bad/etc/etc - but that Powerbomb is still hurting your throttle response and power in riding operations below about 5k rpm..

There have been a few others that complain about Lidless+MCM induction noise - This confuses me as I can't hear any induction noise at all, with Lidless+MCM..None! It is a fact that the exhaust note/quality gets "meaner" with lidless fueling - this is a byproduct of making the extra HP&TRQ..

After you run this a while, you should try the Stock Header DJ140/1N setup for a boost, over Stage II, in the areas you seem to want..