Hey guys
Sorry for my bad English. I have just bought an old KLX 250 (2003-2006). The engine seemed to work fine. Few weeks ago i removed the cam chain tensioner and saw this

I decided to replace the cam chain with a new one (not an oem) and remove that welded metal on the cam chain
.not as i expected, the engine has some strange noise at full throttle ( before every shifting).
i think it is the new cam chain or the tensioner that makes the noise.
I did some research about the Krieger tensioner and seem like it works with many people
Could the manual Krieger tensioner cause any big problems later ? I need some advice

 

The only problems you may have with a manual tensioner of any sort are as follows:

• Tightened the adjuster bolt too tight, using a wrench on it. Too tight can cause the cam to break the oil film in the bearing surfaces causing seizure damage. The adjuster bolt is to be turned in finger tight, then backed off about 1/6 turn. If there is clicking of the cam drive when fully warmed up it needs turned in 1/8-1/4 turn.
• Did not tighten the mounting fasteners tight enough with a dab of blue hand tool LocTite on them. The fasteners may loosen allowing oil to run out and make a mess, plus loud clicking as the adjuster is no longer set up properly. Kawasaki lists the torque for their bolts at 87 in-lb, I have them at 72 in-lb from the machinery handbook on-line, get it somewhere between there and you're good to go.
• Did not tighten the locking nut tightly. The locking nut tightens against the body securing the adjuster bolt in place, so it needs to be securely tight, otherwise the adjustment may back out and you will hear progressively louder clicking.

That's pretty much it. Manual tensioners have been made both OEM (SR500/400 and XS650) and aftermarket for decades and are proven very effective if you follow the process above.

Clearly someone who didn't understand what fails in the OEM tensioner tried to solve the issue in a poor manner there. See that polished area there on the plunger? That is caused by the plunger pushing in and snapping back out. The spring is only to advance the plunger, not to hold it in place, the ratchet teeth are to do that and they have worn the tips of the teeth to the point where the ratchet pawl will not lock in. That is the failure - it pushes in and snaps back out, not that it is too short or anything like that.

No idea where you are located, but PM or email me if you decide the manual tensioner is the right path, don't buy my part on ebay, I charge an extra $4 to cover their fees. Order direct and use PayPal, which covers you on any purchase problems.