HeyheyheyKids
drain the float is the best way. although if you forget.
lean it down on both sides then thumb over the exhaust worked for me yesterday.

Would you guys take a look at my "Carb dimensions" post?
Wondering if a TM33 will cure this. I'm waisting gas and losing patience
All the best ....Maddog

 

You don't have to drain the carb if you ran it out of gas. Here it is one more time. Proven 100% successful.

Sorry for the copy and paste.

Shut down procedure.

1. After riding as you are pulling into your driveway, or to speed things up you can do this a block from your house, turn off the gas.
2. Let the bike run until it actually dies from gas starvation, (this may take 2-5 minutes) But that's ok it will give you time to put away your gear.
3. Park it and now you're ready for the next time you ride whether that be in a day, or a month.

Start up procedure.

1. Turn on the gas
2. Wait for 10 seconds
3. Start the bike as you always do

Now I know some of you are asking why not just drain the bowl and then you can start the bike. Well there are two reasons. It it harder to drain the bowl by hand than to let the bike do this as it runs out of gas, and by running the gas out using the motor, it assures that all of the small areas that would otherwise still have this junk they call fuel will be empty, ready for fresh, (fresher) gas to get in and do its job. Now all of that being said, I came up to work yesterday to let my son ride the moped up on the lawn and I cranked on the bike for a few minutes, and then I thought I wonder if I can drain the bowl and do the "after thought" procedure to get this thing going? Well I drained the bowl, turned the gas back on and two kicks and it was running. Keep in mind that the moped is a two stroke, and it has been sitting up at work in a mechanical room for about 2 months. So either way, whether running the gas out using the motor so you are ready to go next time (which I think is faster and more efficient) or you drain the bowl using the screw at the bottom of the carb, the results are the same, you get your bike started.

And I even guess some people would say that this is a hassle, but I gotta tell you that cranking on a bike for 5 minutes off and on only to run the battery down and still have not started the bike is way more of a hassle than a little time taken to get ready for the next ride. This last summer I rode my bike everyday for about 3 months, and it always started right up, but there are a couple of reasons. one it was warmer out, cold weather affects fuels in a negative way, and more importantly by riding the bike everyday I had gas in the bowl that didn't have enough time to "change". Next summer I will probably go back to leaving the gas on and not draining the bowl. but on the wife's bike the procedure will always be to run it out of gas since she doesn't ride as often as I do.

 

Im 60 miles or so East of ya...Yup same issue....

All I do is pull out the choke and use the front brake and rock the bike back and forth 2 or 3 times......Press the start button and it starts everytime.....Without doing this the bike never starts below 30 degrees..

Rocco

 

Bill's is easy to install

 

No pumper is easy to install or any carb related crap on this bike ....move South, it's warm down here.

 

I guess, I'm a little confused.
Why would you have to drain the carb to make it start better? I have many vehicles that could be used more, so I always use fuel stabilizer, so the gas is good.
It seems as though the bike is getting fuel, but it just doesn't fire -on either bike.
I know that my snowblower has a primer and that works well with the choke, but is needed because the carb sits lower than the intake port.
I had a 1972, polaris TX with twin carbs that started even at 0 F and I just sold it last year and it still started that way.
I had a 1977 Yamaha 400 XS that was a bear to start when it was cold, but it had points not CDI -I always thought that CDI's would always fire no matter what?
Since I can smell fuel, I'm thinking that the starter doesn't spin fast enough unless the battery is 100% and the battery may be undersized.
Is here a better battery with more cranking power.
Maybe a higher quality spark plug also? Has anyone had better overall starting with a higher quality spark plug?
Thanks,
Glen

 

There were several ideas people had as to why starting with an fresh bowl of fuel worked. Fresher gas, vapor lock, I can't remember exactly. I know it works for some, so thats why I'm trying it. I can tell you for sure that the battery I have is a dog. It may have just slipped through quality control, but I just think the stock battery in the KLX isn't engeneered for colder weather. Like I said when it's cold out I get about 3 five+ second tries to get the bike to fire, after that it goes down hill quick. Last spring I had the same type of trouble, and leaving the bike on the battery tender seemed to help. Since then I have put on the FMFQ4 and rejetted. After the pipe/jet the bike runs great, but the cold starting seems just a tad worse (not enough to start playing around with jetting again). I ran the bike last Sat and it's been sitting since then in the 20-30 deg weather with an empty float bowl, and the battery tender on it. I plan on tryin to fire it up this friday and see how it does.
I use stabil in the gas, but doesn't seem to change the way it cold starts.

 

The theory on draining the bowl is that the small amount of fuel sitting in the bowl will "go bad" after only a short amount of time since there is so little of it and it is exposed to the open air. If you burn up all the gas in the bowl before you park it, when you go to ride it a few days later and turn on the petcock, you'll get "fresher" fuel from the tank into the bowl of the carb and should fire easier.

I've never noticed a difference, but Deej does this trick and it works for him, and I trust him, so I'd give it a shot if I were you.

I'll still have to disagree about the battery strength with you guys. I've spun and spun and spun on my starter and never heard it slow down. Just yesterday I was riding trails, and I killed the bike, it didn't want to refire since it was hot, and I spun on it many times, then just turned it off and let it sit. After 15 seconds I turned it back on, spun some more and it fired right up. One cold morning I was being fresh and tried to start it without the choke, and then it wouldn't fire at all, choke or no. Spun and spun on it and it finally fired, never heard it slow down.

The speed that it spins only should determine how fast it fires. The battery on my dad's DRZ is all but dead. He'll turn it on and hit the starter and it barely turns over, I mean, maybe one revolution a second, and it still will catch, fire, and take off.

If the battery turns the starter over, then it has the power for firing. Your battery is not the problem. Try Deej's trick of turning off the petcock a block from your house and burning out the fuel and shaking the bike to get fresh fuel next time you ride.

 

+1. It's warm down HERE.

 

Hey peeps give this a try....

I just tried my bike after sitting for 5 days outside in the snow...Pulled the choke rocked the bike at the same time pressed the start button...Starts in 2 seconds everytime....

Rocco