I usually use electrician scissors...cut thru about anything. (Find them at your local hardware/big box store. Get a high quality pair.)

 

Man thats a good idea! I cant believe i didnt learn about this sooner!

 

When you add the cost of the gasket material and the time to make it, I'd rather buy gaskets than make them. Unless I am working on some ancient machine where gaskets are hard to come bye the parts counter can count on me for gasket money.

 

But imagine in a tool kit for the trail, or a temporary fix if the gasket isnt available in town and it takes a few days to ship.

 

Maybe for RTW traveling I'd take some gasket material, but for around home riding a tube of sealant that can deal with gas and oil will work(I hope to never need it) for me.
On second thought, for RTW traveling I'd take a few sets of the gaskets, stowed in the bottom of my pelican case.
But it is a cool skill to have, like making or repairing cables.

 

So, this is an update about using the KLX125 clutch friction plates. It can be done. I used six KX friction plates and one KLX250s friction plate. The outter KLX friction plate is needed to accommodate the judder spring.

Using the stock thickness steel plates will not work, the overall clutch stack is too thick and the clutch cannot release.

I used two of the thinner steel plate from Kawasaki to reduce the stack height and now the clutch works again. This reduced the stack height. If I were to go back in there I might use three of the thinner steels


The KX cluch plates are thicker (more friction material). I think the main advantage of the KX plates is that they have the same outer diameter but a smaller inner diameter. This means there's more contact between the steel plates and the friction plates. It's like having a bigger clutch. Ever square inch of area has to work less hard because there is more area. I also added Barnett springs, so it's hard to tell what is what, and I have only ridden it around the street.

The feel is defiantly different. It feels more "serious" somehow. I'll update this when I have ridden it more.

 

What year KX125 do you get the clutch for? I see the part numbers change through some of the years.

 

Clutch - Friction Plates 13088-1090

 

Tks. I just went ahead and ordered an EBC drc for the 93 kx125.

I will update with my findings, but with some online reading it looks to be the correct one.

 

If you ordered the EBC kit for the KX125 then you may wind up needed two thinner steel clutch plates to make it work. Do you have a digital micrometer? You can get one at Harbor Freight.

When I used the genuine Kawasaki parts including the stock KX125 frictions the pack wound up too thick by .3MM and it wouldn't work. Pulll in the lever all you like and it wouldn't disengage.

I think you may be breaking new ground using the EBC KX125, but if it works, it'll be a good thing. If you use the whole clutch pack you're going to wind up deleting the judder spring, which I didn't do.

I'll be curious to see how this works out.