When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So glad you averted disaster - hope you can retrieve the "bits-o-wire" from inside your engine..
Most everyone probably already knows that I have been "violently" against using wire on KACR's , or any internal reciprocating/moving engine part, for this very reason.
All wires on all KACR's should be removed immediately !
Anyone thinking a spring-less KACR presents any kind of risk to the engine should (attempt) to explain themselves. But first, try to understand that the KACR goes "full open" at starter cranking speed and remains so when the engine is running.
To remove the KACR, you simply need a long strong punch, 5 lb hammer( a little sledge hammer) , a Vice, and some wood. Using the wood and the Vice, create a proper support for the cam, then punch out the KACR !
I have your example of risk of no spring that you request.
The KLX650 uses the exact same set up and they had some history of throwing the springs and also the rivets work loose allowing the shoes to come loose and drop off. There were a number of riders at the Yahoo KLX650 group that had this happen. When we redid my top end we restaked the rivets, tightening them up a bit. When I tear down my bike this year I will be checking them again. There is a risk.
THAT was the one and only reason I did what I did and recommended it. Those shoes destroyed heads when they came loose and the springs coming adrift could do damage too. As I said, I had TWO of them come adrift in the 650. One got chewed up in the engine to an extent as it ended up in the crank case, the other I found in the head. The solution at the time seemed clear, but apparently the small bit of movement may cause wear on the wire. I will be looking at that when I take mine apart to check.
I now understand the only way to deal with this is to either knock out the CR or remove the shoes.
It is not appropriate to use a 650 to assess potential issues with our 250's.
Nothing about a running 650 is similar to a running 250. All stresses are vastly different. Especially at idle.
The severe vibrations of a 650, especially at idle, will "work loose" or "wear out" anything that's not very well engineered to take the beating. Add in long years of use, and it is not surprising that KLX650 components fail.
You fashion a "collar" out of appropriate wood to support the cam safely while drifting out the KACR. Use a Vice and the collar to support the cam in a safe manner.
I fashioned a collar out of metal. If you have access to such tools, you can too..
had to compromise since i could not get a solid way to hold the cam without risking damage.
so i broke the flaps off and rounded it with a belt sander. (cleaned the cam after ofc)
putting it back in during the weekend when the weather improves.
It is not appropriate to use a 650 to assess potential issues with our 250's.
Nothing about a running 650 is similar to a running 250. All stresses are vastly different. Especially at idle.
The severe vibrations of a 650, especially at idle, will "work loose" or "wear out" anything that's not very well engineered to take the beating. Add in long years of use, and it is not surprising that KLX650 components fail.
Like you know anything about the KLX650s, anything about them. Or how much experience or time those of us in that group have with them.
I will say it's nice to know someone who is perfect in so many ways and makes sure to tell us all how perfect you are.
Might that cause an imbalance that wipes out your bearings? The piece that was there had to be balanced. Cutting it off without any way of knowing how it's going to react seems risky. I know it's small, but it's job is to spin like crazy...
05-23-2019 | 03:37 PM
