Is the choke/start enrichment lever on the KLX250s an all-the-way-out or all-the-way-in affair? Can it not be pushed part way in after initial start so that I can warm the bike up at say 2000 rpm versus 3500 rpm?

The choke on my bike won't stay in an intermediate position. It's either all the way out or all the way in. Just wondering if it's not working correctly.

Thanks

 

it is just in or out..no middle...

 

I usually hold it in the middle, start the bike, then hold it for about 5 seconds before slowly releasing it.

 

Kinda dumb how it is set up, there should be a halfway choke. It is all or nothing.

Makes a racket when you go out to ride your bike home from work and it is setting there screaming at 4000 rpm while it warms up. Automotive carburetors would idle up when the choke was on but not that high.

 

Somehow I don't think that you let your bike sit there screaming at 4000 rpm while it warms up .

 

Depends on the weather? I can release mine or push it in after 5 seconds or so but mornings are probably never much if any below 80F

Depends on your jetting as well

 

^ agree that much depends on jetting. Especially the fuel screw in my experience.

When stock, my KLX wanted to rev up for a while before shutting off the choke or the bike would die. It acted very lean. Then after some mods, I could get it to idle without choke after just ten seconds or so at 50F temps. I think the largest change was enriching the pilot circuit with the fuel screw out to about 2 turns (same stock pilot jet, HMF silencer, lid off, basic stuff).

On the choke lever, yes to the OP, it is basically on/off. The KLR650 has the same type of enricher with a lever on the handle bars that has enough friction to set a partially-open enricher circuit. I've heard of KLR650 riders taking the enricher plunger out of our KLX250 bikes and using them in their 650s. I didn't like the handlebar mounted lever so picked up one of these choke cable eliminators for my KLR: Kawasaki KLR 650 Choke Enrichner Cable Eliminator Over 300 Sold | eBay

It has adjustable friction nut to hold a partially open setting. It should work on the KLX as the listing now includes the KLX (it didn't before).

 

I use the same method cold startup with the OEM CV carb and the newer 36mm pumper...and pretty much the same with most of my carbed bikes over the years. I use the choke to start the bike. Depending on outside temps, I get off the choke as soon as possible and turn the idle **** up just a hair to get a fast idle...not a screaming idle, just a solid, fast idle like most carbed and FI cars provide at cold startup. I get my gloves, helmet, and whatever on during this period, and then get on the bike and turn the idle down...then drive away. Since these bikes don't have electric or temp controlled choke systems, you're not going to get perfection trying to balance the on/off choke setup during cold startup. I think this is why motorcycles have usually had accessible, easy-to-turn idle *****. Start it up with the choke...get off the choke ASAP...then turn up the idle a bit for just a short period before departure. It's what I've done all my life. I've often been able to delete raising the idle during the much warmer months of the year, but I find the idle to usually be too eratic or too low to suit me right after closing the choke. Cold engines...yes, even during hot weather...still don't usually have and optimum fuel/air mixture at idle for a good, strong, warmup idle.

 

That is the notorious Kawasaki high idle. They've had that since the 70s. It is because Kawasaki and Mikuni use an enrichener circuit with virtually no adjustability. it is meant to be wide open or closed. With the cable set ups you can kind of ease it down to restrict the air intake a bit, but it is totally hit/miss. It may work for a second then wind up again or stall.

Honda and the Keihiins have a true choke in them, a butterfly that blocks air into the carb richening the mix that way. It is infinitely adjustable and much more consistent.

The advantage of the Kaw system is if you leave it on by mistake - it has little effect on the mix when running middle and upper throttle range and thus will not foul a plug as easily. If you leave a Honda on choke it is choked across the entire range and can foul a plug. Such is life.

I just let it wind a bit and get rolling fast. There isn't any need for a warm up beyond being able to ride away without stalling. Once oil is circulated in a second or two it is up to you. I take off.

 

That's how I feel about startup also. Helmet and gloves on, mount up, start, idle for 5 seconds, and start to ride with the choke on. Press the choke in after about a block down the street, two blocks if its frosty. I don't subscribe to the set-and-let-idle-for-five-minutes theory.