When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
While expanding the ChinaBomb to fit a FMF creates unknown performance, it would be expected to perform at least as well as the stock header - However, rigging up a small nipple slipon (same nipple size as a stock slipon) to seal into the oversized bell of a performance header will create a power loss across the board, compared to just keeping the stock header !
And here is another bit of knowledge no one asked for - with this thread, the member has verified for us that the ChinaBomb bell and FMF nipples are the same diameter. This makes the ChinaBomb incompatible with any/all KLX250 slipons..
Well the weather man was wrong. No rain today and it ended being nice out. I took the bike out to test the China bomb. It made some improvements but nothing like the Powercore 4 did. The best way to describe it is the driveability was improved as it rev'd a little faster. Probably the biggest improvement was how well it pulled in 6th gear at lower RPMs. I don't believe that a genuine Power bomb would perform any better than the knock off. The welds are good, it's stainless steel, and it's the same size. The only difference is the China Bomb is not flaired and the end. I am glad I spent $85 vs $188 that's for sure. So if any of you want to take the chance and get one, knowing it has to expanded, I say go for it. Next weekend I believe I will do the old MCM and get her really going.
If you do the MCM, pull off the airbox lid, and reset the EJK for lidless running, you're in for a "religious experience" on your first ride ! You'll giggle like a little girl the whole day...
If you do the MCM, pull off the airbox lid, and reset the EJK for lidless running, you're in for a "religious experience" on your first ride ! You'll giggle like a little girl the whole day...
I really hope it wakes her up that much. Right now I am just trying to understand why the ACR has to be modified or removed. It seems it can be pressed out. I am just worried that it might not start as well. Repositioning the cam sprockets I fully comprehend, just not the ARC (yet). Did you remove yours? Thanks.
Last edited by Rickybobby2; 12-16-2019 at 09:48 PM.
You remove the spring or press out the KACR.
Back in the "old days" when I did my MCM, we did not know that deactivating(pulling the spring off) or removing the KACR is perfectly acceptable. So I repositioned my KACR as per M's instructions..
Regardless of deactivated, removed, or repositioned, startups will become unbelievably instant.
You do this because the stock KACR setting is not conducive to easy starting, especially when cold.. Too much compression loss at the wrong time in the cycle..
You remove the spring or press out the KACR.
Back in the "old days" when I did my MCM, we did not know that deactivating(pulling the spring off) or removing the KACR is perfectly acceptable. So I repositioned my KACR as per M's instructions..
Regardless of deactivated, removed, or repositioned, startups will become unbelievably instant.
You do this because the stock KACR setting is not conducive to easy starting, especially when cold.. Too much compression loss at the wrong time in the cycle..
So I can just remove the spring? That should be easy. I am definitely going to do the MCM very soon then. Thanks for the feedback.
12-13-2019, 08:44 PM
